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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me start off by saying I am in no way an expert in tuning engines with KPRO software. I chose to have a professional tune my car. However, I am tired of having to keep my car running with my right foot until it warms up. What in theory would need to be changed (kpro) in order for me to add a IACV to my car? Is it as simple as un-clicking the "disable iac" and setting my target idle speed?

This may be my time to really learn kpro in and out.

Thanks in advance!
 

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That doesn't seem right that you have to use the gas to keep the car running?:confused: Thought when you deleted IACV that the car would run like it did while you had the functional IACV, no problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is the motor stock? I have my idle set to a hair under 1K rpm (950) and the car warms up quickly. This is with 30 degree mornings in NY...
The car warms up fine, but I have to keep my foot on the on the gas pedal or it will choke out. Not running E85.

K20a2 , Z1 cams, RRC, 3'' cold air, HR header, Rcrew 3" exhaust.

Not running IAC, Evap purge, or thermal assist valve. A friend has similar setup and has no issues with his IAC hooked up. Back when I did the swap, everyone was deleting the IAC as if it were robbing power, so I did.

I can upload my calibration if anyone wants to look at it. I would much rather just put the IAC on and have a normal idle.
 

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The car warms up fine, but I have to keep my foot on the on the gas pedal or it will choke out. Not running E85.

K20a2 , Z1 cams, RRC, 3'' cold air, HR header, Rcrew 3" exhaust.

Not running IAC, Evap purge, or thermal assist valve. A friend has similar setup and has no issues with his IAC hooked up. Back when I did the swap, everyone was deleting the IAC as if it were robbing power, so I did.

I can upload my calibration if anyone wants to look at it. I would much rather just put the IAC on and have a normal idle.
is your car a swapped car?? i deleted my iac and i have no issues cold or hot i had to set my idle manually though and delete the iac through kpro in order for it to stay on...i also have the iac block off.. i only deleted my iac because it was hitting my slim fan
 

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Let me start off by saying I am in no way an expert in tuning engines with KPRO software. I chose to have a professional tune my car. However, I am tired of having to keep my car running with my right foot until it warms up. What in theory would need to be changed (kpro) in order for me to add a IACV to my car? Is it as simple as un-clicking the "disable iac" and setting my target idle speed?

This may be my time to really learn kpro in and out.

Thanks in advance!
I am having the EXACT same problem as you. As soon as the motor turns over i immediately have to keep my foot on the gas for at least 2-3 minutes before it'll idle on it's own. After the car is warm and the thermostat is open, 900 rpm idle rock solid. I too was wondering what needs to be changed back.

Edit: It was never a problem before until i installed the rrc manifold. Then the idle became an issue. I don't know what would've changed though. I used the same karcepts rbc adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would check your tps setting.

if you want to upload a .kal, i will look at it.
What's the easiest way to upload a .kal?

is your car a swapped car?? i deleted my iac and i have no issues cold or hot i had to set my idle manually though and delete the iac through kpro in order for it to stay on...i also have the iac block off.. i only deleted my iac because it was hitting my slim fan
Yes 94 integra.

I am having the EXACT same problem as you. As soon as the motor turns over i immediately have to keep my foot on the gas for at least 2-3 minutes before it'll idle on it's own. After the car is warm and the thermostat is open, 900 rpm idle rock solid. I too was wondering what needs to be changed back.

Edit: It was never a problem before until i installed the rrc manifold. Then the idle became an issue. I don't know what would've changed though. I used the same karcepts rbc adapter.
I daily my car even though it's far from a daily in terms of comfort. I would just prefer to have an IACV and not run coolant to it. I've had RRC from the get go, so I can't speak on that.



A co-worker has almost identical setup as me but with IACV hooked up.... COMPLETELY different idle... nice and smooth especially on cold start. I'm gonna look at his .kal and see I can see any differences in the map other than clicking disable iac.
 

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does it not stay running when you let off the gas during intial start up? or does it just run rough? it may be that during cold start ups(open loop) the a/f's could be off and as it reachs temp, it switches into closed loop and the ecu automatically fixes the a/f. , just a thought! if you can give us a datalog, it would help us find out what's going on with it.
 

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I daily my car even though it's far from a daily in terms of comfort. I would just prefer to have an IACV and not run coolant to it.
is that possible?



i would like to add my IACV aswell (i daily mine also) but i tapped and plugged the upper water outlet and welded the heater pipe. I have the IACV sensor and kept the plug/wiring on my harness.....

bay looks clean as a whistle but the IACV would be nice to regain for daily purposes... No Evap or Air Assist Valve either....

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
is that possible?



i would like to add my IACV aswell (i daily mine also) but i tapped and plugged the upper water outlet and welded the heater pipe. I have the IACV sensor and kept the plug/wiring on my harness.....

bay looks clean as a whistle but the IACV would be nice to regain for daily purposes... No Evap or Air Assist Valve either....

I blocked off those ports on my water neck back when I did the swap. Yes, you don't need coolant ran to the IAC.

you can email it to me. [email protected]
I will email when I get home. I don't have it on my work computer.

** Yesterday we were slow at work, so I pulled my throttle body and adapter off, cut a slot for the air to bypass ( RRC ). I put a new PRB idle air valve on, took my old map enabled IACV, set target idle to 950 and uploaded it. It seems perfect, cold start is around 1800-2k rpms and idles down nice once it's warm.
 

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I blocked off those ports on my water neck back when I did the swap. Yes, you don't need coolant ran to the IAC.
If you dont mind sharing, what else did you need besides the IACV on the throttle body? I tapped and plugged the coolant port on my throttle body aswell. That would leave me with just the coolant port on the IACV itself...


:up:
 
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