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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, to start things off, my short block consists of a Golden Eagle sleeved k24a8 block with an a1 crankshaft, balanced Eagle H beam rods, Manley 87mm 11.5:1 ceramic coated pistons, Fluidampr crank pulley, k20a2 oil pump, Clockwise Motion baffle, z3 pan and ACL race bearings. My head consists of a Drag Cartel PNP k24a2 head with +1 intake valves and supertech flat face valves, and IPS KSC v2 cams. My boost will be around 17 psi coming from a Magnum Powers MPX90 supercharger. And exhaust will be exiting via an ASP header with 3" outlet into a 3" Go Power exhaust.

Now for the questions: (I'm blue in the face from searching)

1) With the sleeved block, I cannot use the coolant divertor that is used for the a2 head, right? If not, hope I don't have coolant problems.

2) What head gasket do I need to use? I've searched and some say k24a2 and some say k24a1 even though I have a k24a8

3) Since the Manley pistons are really meant for a frank build, should my motor be safe at 50* timing advance or should I get a limiter pin?

4) Also, should I see more or less than 11.5:1 compression using frank pistons in a full k24? Hopefully less

All advice and info is greatly appreciated!

Here's a link to my build thread... http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engi...-mpx90-supercharged-build-what-you-think.html
 

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you have to measure the VTC advance. i dont know the specs on those cams but you probably cant go 50. and it has nothing to do with the pistons "not being made for a frank" you dont need a limiter pin you just need to set it in the program to not go over what it can take.
 

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On the build like this, claying the motor to find out clearances should be mandatory.

Have you got the head CC'd? More than likely those pistons are made for a 50.5cc combustion chamber and your combustion chamber is more than likely 52-53cc, which would decrease the compression.
 

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1. With my sleeved k24a2 block and k20a2 head I do not have the coolant diverter because of the deck guard. My water temps have been fine and I'm still using the stock radiator for my k24a4.

2. From the research I have done, you use the head gasket that matches the head. In your case, you would want a k24a2.

3. The only way you will be able to tell the clearance is to clay your motor. I have the IPS KSC '11 cams in my motor and they are 50° VTC safe. Every motor is different though, so you always want to clay your motor to check clearances. There is a very good thread on how to do it stickied in the engine building forum.

4. You would need to know the volume of your combustion chamber first, then there's a way you can figure out the compression with your pistons. There's some math involved, but you can figure it out fairly easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On the build like this, claying the motor to find out clearances should be mandatory.

Have you got the head CC'd? More than likely those pistons are made for a 50.5cc combustion chamber and your combustion chamber is more than likely 52-53cc, which would decrease the compression.
I've read and read about claying the motor, but one dumb question. What kind of clay do I use? I honestly don't know all the specs of the head, but I hope it does decrease my compression slightly since it'll be supercharged.

1. With my sleeved k24a2 block and k20a2 head I do not have the coolant diverter because of the deck guard. My water temps have been fine and I'm still using the stock radiator for my k24a4.

2. From the research I have done, you use the head gasket that matches the head. In your case, you would want a k24a2.

3. The only way you will be able to tell the clearance is to clay your motor. I have the IPS KSC '11 cams in my motor and they are 50° VTC safe. Every motor is different though, so you always want to clay your motor to check clearances. There is a very good thread on how to do it stickied in the engine building forum.

4. You would need to know the volume of your combustion chamber first, then there's a way you can figure out the compression with your pistons. There's some math involved, but you can figure it out fairly easily.
When you clayed your motor, did you use plumbers solder like you mentioned in the thread? If so, how did it work out?
 
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