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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The AF chassis has a lot of room vertically, more than the 2nd gen CRX (EF chassis), because the hood slopes less. So this kit is built like the other Hasport kits with the ability to flip for a K20 or K24. During our mount development it looked like there may be enough room if the underside hood supports were removed to put the K24 at the K20 mount height to maximize ground clearance. I skinned the underside of my hood decades ago to shave some weight.

these cars have a very different subframe system due to the torsion bar suspension. So the rack sites nice and tight to the firewall. We literally remove nothing from the car and drop it right over the motor. Just have to twist and turn it a little during the process to clear a few things, but it just slides right up and in. K20 requires less of this with the shorter IM than the K24 RBB manifold.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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The AF chassis has a lot of room vertically, more than the 2nd gen CRX
I see your point. Thanks for your information about it.

these cars have a very different subframe system due to the torsion bar suspension.
Sounds good. The EE8 chassis seems to have not enough clearance for the DAMPFHAMMER engine. I am actually investigating this. The issue is the IM, which will definitely need a cut out of the hood for them. That would be not ready to pass legal confirmation tests by TÜV, would be only for race track possible here. The subframe of the 2nd Generation chassis reduces the rear clearance at the header, but would fit. I am in sketch mode to find an concept to clear the hood and IM. My 2nd impression is any solution is a compromise for power, which has to be proven on the dyno. I will decide soon if I cover that risk or not for my DAMPFHAMMER HD chassis and engine built.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Brian, with HASport, is working on getting hoods made again for the 2nd gen EF that clear the IM. There was someone making them but stopped and he has a couple. I don’t know the timeline on this and may not help you on the other since Your in Europe. I can only imagine the cost of shipping a hood that far! 😱
 

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That is cool Brain is getting the ball rolling on the 2nd gen EF hoods that clear IM's. I have never driven a CRX with a K24. I am imagining the throttle response off the TQ delievery is impressive, I had a SC K24 the 99mm crank has pop...
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I am excited to experience it myself. I am keeping the RBB manifold to maintain as much of the midrange power and torque as possible. Helps a lot on the track.

i drove the HASport supercharged J powered 2nd Gen CRX in a couple of events. One was a magazine shootout event ( dyno, drag, autocross and time attack). 300 hp of stupid fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Motor will be in this Saturday! I cant wait, I have actual had several dreams about it running. You know your a car geek when that happens! 😂

I remember when we swapped the EW for the B16 and what a difference that was going from 100hp to 150hp. Now going from 150 to 215 is going to be stupid fun!

appreciate the support!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
We successfully got the K24a2 installed at K20 mount height! I really wanted it to work to keep the extra 3/4 ground clearance the K20 gets. It’s great that the HASport mount kit has a flip system designed into it to allow for this.



52123056469_e191926ee5_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr


My hood has been skinned for many years, to save some weight, but we had to remove a bit more to clear the RBB manifold. Need to clean it up a bit and paint it.



52121786387_9271c27c9b_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr

so there will be three options on this kit. Standard high mount for the K20, low mount for the K24 for those who don’t want to modify their hood and finally what I am doing K24 at high mount.



ground clearance is outstanding

52122846103_bd2d726860_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Brian posted a video on how the harness can be built for the 84-87 as well as other cars up to 2000. Clearly made before motor was in as it is today.

 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Haven’t updated in a while as I took some vacation and Brain was out of town. Yesterday we pulled to motor out and did a bit more work to the passenger side frame rail to ensure good clearance. We also welded in the patch panel and closed up the small clearance on the drivers side. Plan is to weld in the left and right mounts this Wednesday night. Then motor will go in for good.

I also got all of my fuel system components finally. Can’t get things as quickly as you could in the past.

The SpeedHut speed box arrived as did the speedo cable. I think this is going to be a very slick solution to keeping the dash working as it did originally and work with the vss style transmissions. Same company that makes their cables custom made me one with all the correct ends. This will work with any cable driven speedo.

52175615804_0fd3d60da3_c.jpg
 

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Yesterday we pulled to motor out and did a bit more work to the passenger side frame rail to ensure good clearance.
Does it mean even at your chassis the suspension frame has to be customized for a better clearance between header and subframe? My deal with the EE8 didn't come to action, seller retreated from it, but the subframe clearance would had be a topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
No it’s the inside of the left and right frame rails, not the subframe. No modifications are needed to that.

on the right frame rail under where the battery tray was there was a bump on the frame rail. This bump is right by the water pump pulley which only gave 1/8in of clearance. This also meant that you would be able to change the belt without dropping the motor. So buy cutting that out you get the clearance you need. On the drivers side frame rail it’s a small clearance for a bump on the transmission. Again it clears but by a very small amount so you could hammer the rail or do what we did and basically radius the corner.

we are video taping all of this so it will be clear what needs to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
We worked on the swap yesterday and today, some of you may have seen a post by HASport.

Mounts are welded in and we have started cleaning and painting the mounts and other areas of the engine bay.

Also did a valve adjustment on the motor, so much easier to do out of the car, and installed another water pump hosing. I had modified mine in anticipation of using the K tuned relocation kit but it did not work out. I had chopped of the top portion where the tensioner and idler mounted. So had to transfer everything over to another housing.

Wednesday we are going to finish painting and cleaning the engine bay and prepare for final installation of the motor!
 

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Wednesday we are going to finish painting and cleaning the engine bay and prepare for final installation of the motor!
I am looking forward to see it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr

We did some painting in the engine bay to cover up some of the decade’s of wear and tear. We also cleaned up the wiring harness that is in the engine bay and tucked the stuff we don’t need or will connect to back in the cabin.

torqued everything down and installed the header. Next we will be tackling axles, half shaft, shifter and cables. I am also going to start mocking up the fuel system in the engine bay.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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We did some painting in the engine bay to cover up some of the decade’s of wear and tear.
Thanks for sharing the progress on your very interesting race car. You didn't filler the chassis before covering it with paint? Was it too much for a race car regarding effort?

Tomorrow we will run into the high 30 °C area, 35-40 °C are forecasted. Which goes into the record list of Germany's hottest day into the top 20 I assume. I just remind you told me about the heat in Arizona and what I've read about it: 107 days/year with over 100 °F. We had one this year. You maybe count already over 20 or so, don't you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
We talked about doing the entire bay but this in honestly not a show car so i just wanted to hit the spots that were really bad and had raw metal showing.

thats hot for you guys, it was 115 here over the weekend. I am great full that Brian installed AC in his garage! 😂
 

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We talked about doing the entire bay but this in honestly not a show car so i just wanted to hit the spots that were really bad and had raw metal showing.
Thanks, I see your point.

thats hot for you guys, it was 115 here over the weekend. I am great full that Brian installed AC in his garage!
I am sorry for you guy, 46 °C would be too hot...we had a 32 °C day and I was in homeoffice without AC or stuff like that. On that temperature it is easy to have a 22 °C flat when cooling is done wisely. But on 46 °C I believe it would be difficult to keep below 30 °C without any mechanic-themodynamical support. Especially if you have girls in the house which don't care... 🤣.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
So true! The 24,000 btu cooler was able to get the temps to 90 in the garage. Like you said when it’s that hot your asking a lot of any system especially in a shop environment. All the homes here are well insulated and have central air.

we had a storm come through last night and knocked out power for about 3 hours. Needless to say it was getting warm quickly inside and almost impossible to sleep.
 
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