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250whp EG. What components.

6K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  Paul1985 
#1 ·
Hey guys,
I'm wanting to build an engine next year, doing some research on it.

Car will be an EG Hatch.

Firstly, i'm shooting for around 250whp. I was wondering, do any of you guys drive around in something with this kind of power regularly?

How much is too much?

I was after some opinions on what sort of setup I should go with aswell.

I am thinking:
-K24A accord block
-pistons ?? Unsure as of yet, any opinions?
-rods ?? Unsure as of yet, any opinions?
-k20z3 ported head
-supertech valvetrain
-cams - I'm thinking IPS.. Maybe k2's?? Any opinions?
-70mm ported rbc im/skunk2 TB
-r-crew 3" headers/exhaust with a high-flow cat
-erl/s2k oil pump
-h-r chain tensioner
-cometic headgasket
-acl bearings
etc

I think that should get me where I want to be.

I was also wondering whether it would be a better option to purchase one of niko's short blocks or DIY. I need to research the cost of purchasing the parts for DIY vs. nikos shortblock. I'm a mechanic and with some help from the mechanics from work, i'd be more than capable of assembling an engine.

I'm after some opinions on cost, what brands of piston/rods etc are suitable.
Also, what c/r pistons etc should I go with? I'm thinking 12.5.

Any feedback and advice would be great, as im trying to organise a complete parts list so I can eventually order the bulk of it in one hit to save on shipping.
 
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#4 ·
04 and up stock tsx motor and cams 249hp 195 tq

rbc, header, 3inch pipe done
 
#5 ·
i had stock TSX block, IPS KME CAMS, rcrew header, Rbc mani (non ported) rdx injectors... i made 250HP ,193tq.....and this was my daily 2+ yrs ago.. Sold the whole car...

still got my monster map saved from back in the day...soo holla!!
 
#6 ·
How was it to daily?
Myself, i dont care for PS or AC or comfort much at all... Just as long as a cars driveable on the road lol.

Maybe I should shoot for 275-300HP then
What about that on the street? Too much?

I dont want it to drive like a fool on the road, but i would like to be able to drive it around from time to time... Possibly 4 hour trips to track days... weekend drives up the highway to my parents place for a visit etc etc..
Every now and then to work...

So im wondering the driveability of such a car.

What do you guys recommend for a piston/rod combo??

Are there any items that i'll need to purchase that are normally forgotten about on an engine build? I know ill have to get myself a good torque wrench(s) and some piston installing tools etc.
Im talking things like...
Head bolts/headgasket/rod bolts. Things you dont think about and then realise you need them.
 
#7 ·
OK, I've been thinking...
I currently have a EG Hatch with a stock TSX motor in it with RBC IM, shitty exhaust.

I'm thinking maybe i should pull that out and build that rather than purchase a new block and begin fresh.

My new questions are.

What is the most suitable C/R for what i'm wanting?
How much on average is it for an engine builder/machine shop to bore/hone a 4-cyl block?? Is that all i would need to outsource on the block?

Other than that I should be able to purchase a piston/rod combo (with rings/pins/bolts) and some bearings.

What would you do if you had a TSX block in your hands to build if you were in my position?
 
#16 ·
Im trying to work out whether to find somewhere that can sell me for my K24A2 head:

-IPS cams (i was thinking K2's. Wasnt sure on whether those or K10's?)
-complete valvetrain (supertech)
-Then send out my K24A2 head for a port and polish to a local engine builder, then build the head.

Either that or maybe purchase a pre-built head (id go k20a/z) from the USA, if this were a possible option?

Does anyone know where i can buy those specific cams and valvetrain from the same supplier?? I'm not sure on any good suppliers of engine components.

Another thing, are K20A/Z and K24A2 head components interchangeable?? I dont want to order gear that wont fit my head.
 
#17 ·
might want to upgrade your tensioner? seems like HR got a pretty robust tensioner for aftermarket cams (high lift?)

and what's your intended power band paul?
rpm shift point?

i've been reading abit about tranny shift point and it makes lotsa sense, as in there is no point of making power at 8000rpm and above, but your shift point drops lets say to 5500rpm when shifting through gears.

i guess you would not achieve your maximum acceleration in that 2500rpm climb to get back in your power band.

hope that makes sense.
 
#20 ·
1. and the keepers/seals/guides

id go with the honda oem stuff for this


2.I plan on running this car regularly on the road, almost daily. I will be running it on 98 RON pump gas. What C/R would suit me?
Can I go with a 88mm bore and 12.5:1 C/R piston setup for my needs?
Will run on pump gas only...



i think 98 ron was around 95 oct in north america standards but i could be wrong if 12.5 to1 should work great
 
#23 ·
Another question.

I read on the hybrid website that under the valvesprings they sell it mentions this:

What is a spring base kit and do I need one?

A spring base kit allows the use of dual valvesprings where they were not originally intended. During installation, the original valve seals will need to be removed and replaced. If your head did not originally come with dual valvesprings then you will need a spring base kit.

On my 2004 TSX head, will I need such a thing, I looked in the manual and it looks as though the springs are not dual from factory?

I'm wanting to work out all I need to order.
1. supertech Ti dual valve springs and retainers.
2. STD sized supertech flat-faced valves (what material should I get?)
3. OEM TSX/RSX cotter pins
4. OEM TSX seats

Thats all I can see via looking at the parts page, is this right? What other parts will I need to replace?
 
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