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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here it is guys...The very first Superlite Roadster delivered in the US. Of course, the engine is the K20A. The chassis is manufactured to accept almost any FWD 4-cylinder engine. The two popular choices so far have been either the Honda K-series or the Mitsubishi 4G63T. People have also talked about putting in the Dodge SRT-4 engine.

I chose the K20A because of it's high redline and having good power potential. I'm planning on leaving the engine stock at first and seeing how it drives. If I want more power than that I'm thinking of adding the new kraftwerks rotrex supercharger.

I'm adding a surge tank to prevent fuel starvation and an oil baffle. I'm hoping to meet the performance level of the atom at just a fraction of the cost. If you guys have any tips or suggestions let me know. I'm sure I'll be on here quite a bit asking you guys questions as I haven't worked on these Honda engines at all.

The pictures are a few weeks old. I've since added a front spoiler and side mirrors. I'm hoping to have all of the mounts I need this week or next so I can drop the engine in.
 

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contact rywire. he can make you a stand alone race harness and probably incorporate the s2k cluster. If you feel up to the task of doing the wiring yourself, hondata has a nice diagram for race vehical wiring. Im using the wiring harnesses from a rsx for my kit car build. Stripped of what i don't need.
still have to buy my chassis but check it out. Ill be building one
www.fusionracecars.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sweet car you got there Slociviccoupe! And thanks for your help; however, I've already got all of my wiring harnesses. For all of the gauges I'm using a DigiDash.

http://www.etbinstruments.com/DD2_lite.htm

Although... I am going to need help trying to figure out the shift cables. For those of you that have installed a K-series engine in the rear how did you work out the shift cables? I was planning on extending the cables and making some brackets where I can wrap them all the way around the engine. However, the cables are quite stiff and you're not able to make very sharp turns with them. I just want it to look nice and tidy.
 

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one guy took the metal accord shifter, cut off the shift lever, flipped the entire unit upside down and welded the lever back on. this allowes the cables to go backwards instead of towards the front of the car.
I think the new civic si 06-07 shifter might work also.

then route the cables conventionally on the trany and just route them under the trany and forward.

I personally would get the ikea sequential shifter for the lotus elise and attach k series shift cables.
 

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they also make a coupe don't they with full body work? looks like a rolex daytona prototype race car. How much did the rolling chassis cost you?
 

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Welcome! There are a couple of guys here that have RWD K's. simba and kb58 are their usernames. kb58 has a website with a complete build and he's on the K20,org pretty often. If you haven't got the exhaust yet contact onefstek, he's here in the Pacific NW and does sharp work. Nice guy too!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The company (RCR) that builds these also build the Superlite Coupe. The name is a little deceiving as the coupe is not just a roadster with a body on it. The Superlite Coupe uses an aluminum monocoque frame. The one down below uses a modified LS7 (~650 hp) and the Ford GT transmission. They start at $43,000 for a roller.

The Superlite Roadster starts at $16,000 for a roller and I added about $1,800 in options:

parking brake
removable 4-point roll bar
double adjustable shocks

Right now I'm the only one in the US that has one, but there are a few more on order. They've also shipped a few to Australia where a professional builder is starting to put some together.

Since I'm the first one and there is no instruction manual there are still a lot of things to figure out.
 

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the coupe is exactly what Im designing/building, with k series in the back, longitudinally mounted. With my own transaxle. K series transmission converted to rwd transaxle. with custom machined parts and case. Alternative to using the porsche gearbox. already has gears suited for a 4 cylinder engine with lsd.
my engine is destroked k24. using s2000 crank. so I have 2.2l with good rod ratio. should make around 300hp NA. in a 1150lb car.:dance:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That is going to be one sweet ride! I'm deeply impressed by anyone who can build and design their own car. Let alone building a custom transmission on top of that!

What are you building the frame and body out of? Is this going to be your FRC-14 car?
 

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yes my first. Dennis from fusion said that he would sell me a chassis in peices. Starting off with the welded frame. then adding suspension later. They are working on a road going versionn that has more ground clearance and suspension travel.
But I am getting impatient and might start on my own frame, using the s2000 rear suspension I have, copying the dimensions, making my own tubular control arms and billet aluminum uprights.
the transaxle is not as hard as you would think. All that is involved is machining off the oem final drive from the countershaft, ataching a pinion gear to the end of the countershaft via splines machined on the end of the countershaft and on the inside of the pinion shaft from an s2000. then a simple cast aluminum split case.
I will be Making the mold for the body by using foam. may have the foam plug done on 5 axis cnc. or just hand shape it. not sure of the final look, but I like the doran daytona prototype shape. nice and sleek
 

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Man, without any sides on that chassis, you are going to have a lap full of gravel whenever you drive it. Whenever we run the open wheeled car we build at LSU for the Formula SAE competition without a body the driver gets pelted by rocks and sand. Even with the nose cone and side pods on you still catch the gravel in the face.

Other than that it looks awesome. What transaxel will you be running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Man, without any sides on that chassis, you are going to have a lap full of gravel whenever you drive it. Whenever we run the open wheeled car we build at LSU for the Formula SAE competition without a body the driver gets pelted by rocks and sand. Even with the nose cone and side pods on you still catch the gravel in the face.

Other than that it looks awesome. What transaxel will you be running?
I've actually thought a lot about how to prevent rocks in the face. I'm running Nitto NT-01's which are really sticky and tend to pick up everything off of the road.

The car will have front and rear fenders when it's done. The front fenders actually cover the wheels pretty good. A lot better than the tiny little things on the atom. I'm planning on putting pieces of clear Lexan panels up front to try and block road debris. I'm also thinking of trying to make some clear panels for the sides as well for when I take it on the highways. I'll also be wearing a helmet most of the time.

The stock transmission actually works. For the K-series engine you just have to get the engine mounts out of a 06+ Civic SI and custom axles provided by RCR and it drops right in.
 

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I've actually thought a lot about how to prevent rocks in the face. I'm running Nitto NT-01's which are really sticky and tend to pick up everything off of the road.

The car will have front and rear fenders when it's done. The front fenders actually cover the wheels pretty good. A lot better than the tiny little things on the atom. I'm planning on putting pieces of clear Lexan panels up front to try and block road debris. I'm also thinking of trying to make some clear panels for the sides as well for when I take it on the highways. I'll also be wearing a helmet most of the time.

The stock transmission actually works. For the K-series engine you just have to get the engine mounts out of a 06+ Civic SI and custom axles provided by RCR and it drops right in.
I'm glad you've been thinking about that, because it could definitely be annoying if you didn't do anything to avoid it. We run r25 compound Hoosier slicks on our car, so they probably pick up more rocks than you will. Between the lexan sides and fenders, you may not see any gravel.

What sort of weight distribution do you anticipate? Also, do you know how high the CG will be above the ground?
 
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