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k20 all day for track use... for reasons mentioned... but also for tire management. The added TQ from the 2.4 is pretty much across the whole powerband, boost it and its substantial over the 2.0. The 2.0 makes it easier to pedal the power under boost.

I personally wouldnt build an NA engine at that limit for road course. I would set engine compression at 10.5/11.0cr and do the rest with boost. It will be substantially cheaper per HP.

You could even build reliable power on OEM components at that point. K24a2 rods and pistons in a k24a1 bottom end. K24a1 head with 3 lobe cams of your choice and flipped pin VTEC on the OEM 3 lobe rocker assembly. I myself have a k20 variant of that build, and a friend of mine built a k24 version on the same basics. I used k20z3 cams and hit the typical 220whp, he used stg 4 Drag Cartel cams and a better header/exhaust and RRC manifold and peaked right at 290whp and almost 190wtq (both NA builds, on the OEM 11.0cr and rpm 8.5k for me and 9k for him)

He has since sold his build so i cant comment on his long term reliability (but the OEM piston and rod combo are proven reliable to 9k and 15-20psi per application) but i have over 10 years and 145k miles on my build. Hes a drag racer and mine is a workhorse, daily driver, track, Mexico street racing (years ago), and the only failure ive had was my 2nd gear just recently (02 CTR trans w/LSD)... and it was really due a rebuild considering all the abuse it received.

I prefer a roots blower for SC and track use. guaranteed power at any given RPM. Its the heatsoak that hurts...
 

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The biggest disadvantage with roots and k24 is losing about 2psi versus the same setup on a k20 (same engine speed). Gotta fill up those cylinders, and cant spin much faster to make a difference.

My fave roots setup was 12psi on a stock JDM k20a. For a street car it was excessive with the JDM CTR trans. 6th to 3rd downshifts at 45mph and WOT was so much fun.
 
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