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Discussion Starter #1
So where do i start...

I am a huge VW fan but also always liked Honda's too. I have had a ridiculous amount of VW's but not really had Honda's.

So after wanting a Jetta coupe for around 10 years and them not being available in the UK, i finally got my hands on a hearing aid beige coupe with a brown interior.for years i wanted to build a rwd S2000 powered coupe but in reality i don't have the skill set or time.
So June 2016 i bought the car and got her on the road in the October of that year.
The following summer i put in some recaro's i had laying around, fitted my BBS RS's lowered her down and enjoyed it.

Here she is when i bought her:


Summer 2017:
[/url

Interior Shot:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iuwLgi]


Over the next few years i tossed back and forth with should i....shouldn't i Kswap the Jetta. In 201 i7 had the opportunity to buy a Civic Type R EP3 with full Honda service history for peanuts so a deal was done and i drove the car home.

So fast forward to September last year i decided enough was enough and cracked on with the Jetta.
Firstly ii stripped the jetta engine out and the car sat till December.

Before:




After:




[/url

And that's how i left her for till christmas.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So a few days Before Christmas i thought it would be a great time to pull the engine from the EP3, so that when Christmas was over i could make a good start on both.

Onto the ramp:


Few hours later:



so with the engine out i gave a qucik clean up just so it is less dirty moving it in and out of the bay.





Next up was to get the coupe's bay cleaned and set up on the ramp and asses the rust on the battery tray.
All cleaned up:



Next i separated the K20 frm the subframe and used the engine hoist to roughly place it in the bay.


I had figured i would need to notch the chassis leg and this confirmed it. was great to see the engine would fit with a bit of work. This is the first time i have ever done an engine conversion, so it is a bit of a learning curve. I built truck bodies years and years ago, so have some welding and fabrication skills.

I will upload some more tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so i'll pick up where i left off.
once i eyed the engine up in the bay i swapped the subframe over to the one i modified to remove the old mounts.
placed the engine on a table, so i could get the engine in and out while i was measuring and chopping to make it fit.


checking clearances:


You can see that the OEM manifold is very close to the UJ on the steering rack, im also converting the car to RHD so wouldn't be an issue if the car remained LHD.

This highlights the issue with the chassis leg, to get the engine further back so all the weight isn't over the front of the wheels too much.



You can see that its too close to both legs, so the notch was needed.

I started slowly notch a small piece at a time, which wasn't a quick process but i wanted to take out as little as possible from the chassis.

I started to strip back the seam sealer so i can see what the metal is like underneath.



Happy with all that, i then set about making mounts. I used 4mm steel.
 

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I put the driveshafts back on to check the angles and rough alignment so i could get them to somewhere i was happy with. The will be made by a company at a later date. More info on that when it happens.

lots of measuring and i had worked out where the engine was going to sit. I made the mounts by CAD....Cardboard Aided Design!

I cut some plates to roughly the sizes i wanted and then set about making them look more aesthetically pleasing on the eye.







It will be braced to add further strength later on to reduce flex. The billet mounts i am using are ebay specials. I had to make the gearbox mount by chopping up the mount that came with the kit.

Next was the gearbox mount.

I made a new tower mount that has been braced up since these photos.


Again using 4mm steel i cut a plate to rough sizes to make the mounts.



Side mounts made i drilled them and put them on, so it will be easier to get the engine closer to its final position when i get round to welding them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
while i pulled the engine back out i removed more seam sealer and all unused brackets.



I wasn't happy with the clearance of the manifold on the steering rack, so i bought a stainless version of the OEM manifold and cut off the flange off and swapped it over. My plan is to use a few bends to clear the rack and then weld on a V-band and mate it to an off the shelf 2.5" exhaust.



My clearance has hugely increased:



I mentioned earlier, i double checked all my driveshaft alignment, i removed my hubs and cable tied the wishbones level so i can get a rough idea.




Now it was all lined up, it was time to finally weld the k20 in:




Great feeling seeing the car with the engine supported on the chassis legs and off the table.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nearly up to date....

I am going to semi smooth the bay (the VW guy in me). I am going to leave the scuttle tray in as i want to us it in all weathers.
I made blanks to fill the unnecessary holes before welding, i haven't got pics of all the blanks:











Once i welded up most holes i had to push the car back outside as the ramp was needed by other members, so temporarily i put some etch primer on, the front end back on and put it under a cover.




That is the work on the car up to date at the moment. hoping to get more work done on the bay next week when i get the car back in the workshop.

I need to remove the engine next so i can get to the bulkhead to finish welding and removing seam sealer, i also need to cut out some of the battery tray. Once i have done all that. i will put the engine back in and dry run all the fuel line, radiator and water hoses.
I have been collecting loads of parts in the meantime. it should hopefully end up as nice build but were see how it pans out.

Cheers
Adam.
 

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Nicely done! Keep the updates coming as you work thru them.

My only concern would be the metal gauge for the mounts. I've had issues breaking mounts when using anything smaller than 16ga. But, if you're not looking for big power, you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nicely done! Keep the updates coming as you work thru them.

My only concern would be the metal gauge for the mounts. I've had issues breaking mounts when using anything smaller than 16ga. But, if you're not looking for big power, you should be fine.
Thanks, most people use 2mm an i don't think that's enough. I think with rear and front mounts added, from 4mm it should be fine. If i do find issues at a later date ill just add more strengthening.
 

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I was looking at that color and thought...then I saw the recaros...this is an awesome project. Keep in mind 3” is ten more ponies on the dyno over 2.75. Friend and I have done the bolt on mods with tune. He elected 2.75 exhaust and I went with 3”. Identical mods, same power before he ended up with 207 and I got 217. I read on the forums the same thing which is why I went 3”. If you have an exhaust tunnel it would be 10 free ponies to grab.
I’m planning a kinsight build. 1800 pound k20 or 24 build next. I wish I had your welding skills. They do not make good cvt mounts like they do for the manual unless Brian Gillespie gets on it and finishes it soon.
I love your build!


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Dude, you're killing it! I'm so stoked for you! Also I those seats. Can't wait to see what you do for axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was looking at that color and thought...then I saw the recaros...this is an awesome project. Keep in mind 3” is ten more ponies on the dyno over 2.75. Friend and I have done the bolt on mods with tune. He elected 2.75 exhaust and I went with 3”. Identical mods, same power before he ended up with 207 and I got 217. I read on the forums the same thing which is why I went 3”. If you have an exhaust tunnel it would be 10 free ponies to grab.
I’m planning a kinsight build. 1800 pound k20 or 24 build next. I wish I had your welding skills. They do not make good cvt mounts like they do for the manual unless Brian Gillespie gets on it and finishes it soon.
I love your build!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, its unusual and that is what i love about it. Thanks for the info, i have plenty os space so could get a 3inch on there. im going to get all the fueling and radiator sorted first. Exhaust is towards the bottom of the list.
As for a k swap insight, those are really cool! would like to see one in the flesh.
 

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Dude, you're killing it! I'm so stoked for you! Also I those seats. Can't wait to see what you do for axles.
Thanks dude. i'll be looking to sort thse in the next few months. i want to get the bay all sorted first.
 

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So not much of an update really, i removed the engine again so that i can weld up the notch. I had to make to allow the gearbox to tuck to enable me to get the engine sitting further back in the bay.

Here are a few pics:

20200307_110027

20200307_110033

so i started by capping each end, i welded those to the inside of the chassis leg to add some strength.

20200307_135036

I also put the top plate on and tacked those to the inside of the leg as well. Once that was done, i gave it a couple of coats of etch before capping it off.

20200307_152153

Then i put on the cover plate and welded it all up.

20200307_160802

20200308_124414

That is it up to date at the moment, so next is finish the bulkhead and remove the seam sealer and engine back in to mock up for the radiator and all the fuel lines.

Thanks
 

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As for a k swap insight, those are really cool! would like to see one in the flesh.
Those are really gnarly. My son took a ride in one. They RIP! He said it felt way faster than my 400hp DC5. Thousand pounds lighter divided by 7? That’s quite the way to free up HP!
I assume you are in Germany??

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Those are really gnarly. My son took a ride in one. They RIP! He said it felt way faster than my 400hp DC5. Thousand pounds lighter divided by 7? That’s quite the way to free up HP!
I assume you are in Germany??

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That's cool! no i'm over in the UK, the jetta coupe was never sold in the UK so this one came from Lithuania.
Hoping to get my Jetta down to 1900 pounds, so power to weight should be fairly good. What have you done to tthe DC5?
 

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Stock engine, ported polished head, dc 2.2 cams, springs, 74mm skunk 2 ported intake, 74mm HR Throttle Body, custom CAI, PLM header, thermal 3” exhaust, kpro v4, Quaiffe LSD, Hard race bushings, balls and kw v2 suspension with wider rubber 245, all in fab with welded to ic Tial wastegate, upgraded clutch line, em2 clutch master and braided lines, CC Stage 4 6 puck, billet 75a innovative mounts with front mount (wish I’d have gone with hasport) I dunno, I guess the list goes on. A fellow colleague on the way to a teacher training. The cobra was painter license apparently, not entirely thrilled. I asked for a small snake on left side with rattler shaking shot blow off valve area. I may redo it but it is what it is. Rice. Beans, the perfect food combo.



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Nice work! Interesting to see the transaxle also needs a hefty cut to fit. Welding mine on the X1/9 was a royal pita - in the end I should have gone another 8-12mm deeper as the top corner nub on the transaxle hits on hard right bends.

Nice to see another oldie being modernized. Mine is just under 2K pounds weight, so the 220ish HP makes a very nice difference in the chassis. I still have kinks to iron out before I can get it tuned by a professional (K-Tuner).

Keep up the good work and hope you & yours are all safe & healthy in the current crisis.
 

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Stock engine, ported polished head, dc 2.2 cams, springs, 74mm skunk 2 ported intake, 74mm HR Throttle Body, custom CAI, PLM header, thermal 3” exhaust, kpro v4, Quaiffe LSD, Hard race bushings, balls and kw v2 suspension with wider rubber 245, all in fab with welded to ic Tial wastegate, upgraded clutch line, em2 clutch master and braided lines, CC Stage 4 6 puck, billet 75a innovative mounts with front mount (wish I’d have gone with hasport) I dunno, I guess the list goes on. A fellow colleague on the way to a teacher training. The cobra was painter license apparently, not entirely thrilled. I asked for a small snake on left side with rattler shaking shot blow off valve area. I may redo it but it is what it is. Rice. Beans, the perfect food combo.



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Nice spec, it has had a fair amount of work done then! What power did it make?
 

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Nice work! Interesting to see the transaxle also needs a hefty cut to fit. Welding mine on the X1/9 was a royal pita - in the end I should have gone another 8-12mm deeper as the top corner nub on the transaxle hits on hard right bends.

Nice to see another oldie being modernized. Mine is just under 2K pounds weight, so the 220ish HP makes a very nice difference in the chassis. I still have kinks to iron out before I can get it tuned by a professional (K-Tuner).

Keep up the good work and hope you & yours are all safe & healthy in the current crisis.
I should have around 10mm clearance all the way around. I cut out a little more before i welded it all up.
I will have a look through your thread shortly. I will be using custom driveshafts, because i dont want the risk of them snapping if i sleeve them together.

Thank you, the work has come to a halt because of Covid-19 as the car isn't at my house. Like wise hope all are safe and well.

Thanks
Adam
 
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