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Katman, did you retrofit Odyssey brass terminals onto the lithium battery? I just recently bought a lithium battery but don't have an optimal solution for connecting it yet.

Also, what routine care and maintenance is required for optimal performance? Do you charge it nightly? Is it able to turn the car over on successive tries (for example, bogging while shifting into first)...??
no retrofitting required!
With the supplied hardware (mainly the square nuts), the ody terminals thread right into these these supplied nuts (same thread pitch). You can sorta see the supplied hardware in the last photo.

I just got this battery the other day, so the maintenancing of it is sorta new to me though I did read up on it before purchasing. It does have a power indicator button/gauge on the top (see below). No need to charge it nightly, you can just disconnect the ground if the car isn't being used very often. You can also buy a battery tender or charger for the battery as well. Some lithium battery brands have their own tenders/chargers. The WPS one I bought has a built-in cell balancer whereas other brands rely on the tender/charger to handle the cell balancing duties. Thats why the WPS brand doesn't have its own special tender/charger, you can use say the Bluepoint battery tender for instance. The specs say the battery doesn't need a charge for up to a year if not being used.

I bought a 380cca model so excessive cranking shouldn't be a problem at all for this battery. I've gone through two Odysee PC680's in the last couple years and I'm over that shitty battery. Lithium has been the new frontier for a while, finally jumped on board!

Which lithium battery model & brand did you buy exactly and whats the CCA specs?



 

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Discussion Starter #43
Katman thanks for the battery suggestion. I had thought about it but was not sure which one to use. That one you bought seems like a really good option. I will consider it.

Both NRG and FCSRACE claim that their subframe and lower control arms work for road racing. The FCS sub and arms weight a total of 24 lbs which is I believe a 40lbs savings approx, but the 2.5k price tag would drive me tu use that money for building the engine better.
A chromoly rear trailing arm with would definitely reduce weight. FCSRACE is developng a rear kit with aluminum hub, bracket and caliper but is not done yet and seems to be oriented for drag. We shall see once it is done. That would be a good choice to combine with a tubular trailing arm.
It seems reducen weight with the components above would cost around 4k to maybe rexuce around 80 to 90lbs.
 

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Which lithium battery model & brand did you buy exactly and whats the CCA specs?
Apologies for the incredibly late reply.

I bought the 24 cell, 12 volt Antigravity battery. It delivers 720 cranking amps and weighs under 5 lbs.


For the record, I have alway had a good experience with Odyssey batteries. I consider a trickle charger part of routine maintenance as well as the infrequent full charge with owner neglect. There will always be some compromise with going smaller and lighter.
 

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my ek weighs 1750 lbs with no ballast weight added or driver.

has all stock glass and only cut doors. people are over thinking this lol.

east coast eg's are in the 17xx lb range WITH DRIVER.
1750? How did you manage that... Full cage? K series?
My car is complete gutted road race car with one seat and I'm at 2200 with a half tank and no Driver. Doors gutted, sound proofing completely removed. I'm running a k with a full cage.
 

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Yeah I'm curious about that weight target as well. My "Midlana" car looks like a Lotus Seven but runs a K24 mid-engine. The weight of it with me inside is right at that weight, and that was before adding the dry sump. With full glass windows all around, doors, and a roof, it makes the goal pretty ambitious!

I'm highly suspicious of weight claims because they rarely are backed up by fact - they're like fishing stories, quietly cheated to impress people. I suspect many are "forgetting" about including driver weight, fuel weight, coolant weight, transmission oil weight, etc. If I leave those out, my car magically drops under 1500 lbs.



 

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... 5 pt chromoly roll bar (mild steel is much heavier) ...
I feel this is misleading because steel is pretty much the same weight regardless of alloy. Chromoly "can" be lighter only because the rules may allow smaller diameter and/or wall thickness tubing, but it has nothing to do with switching alloys. Switching to chromoly may or may not be an advantage in road racing - it depends what the rules allow. I seem to recall SCCA rules specifying DOM mild steel only, but that was a while ago.
 

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I agree with You 100%. I have a gutted Lotus race car wit a proper roll cage. 1700lbs, for real, on corner balance scales and there is 80lbs of chrome-moly in the cage. People make all kinds of claims... Weight is just like Dyno numbers. :) Show me a calibrated croner weight scale read out. At least weight is much easier to calibrate than power measurement....

I know of very few metal uni-body cars below 2000lbs or 2300lbs. consider K20 motor + tranny = 400 lbs. C4orners with suspension, shock, breaks (20lbs), wheel (20lbs) tire (20lbs) and axles another 500lbs... we keep on going, fuel, fluids, battery, accessories, body, cage, turbo+intercooler, body, cage, and so forth.

Canadian rules allow smaller tube for chrome-moly (4130 aircraft) tube versus 1018 seamless mild steel. I have not read SCCA rules, recently. I believe, they removed any difference between the two. Chrome-moly is not any stiffer. It is just stronger. Although bad welds will result in sharp breaks.... Otherwise, based on my experience, the extra strength is worth it when it come to protecting one's head... 1018 is 45ksi and 4130 is 90ksi+ in normalized condition e.g. what we use. 4130, properly constructed, will absorb a lot of energy....

4130 is $5 to $8 per foot, square tubing is more....mild steel $3 per foot. Hot rolled or welded tube is cheaper, but much weaker at 35ksi. Canadian rules do not allow welded tube anymore. Titanium 105ksi at $100 per foot. Inconel 140ksi at $200/ft. +...

Anton



Anton


I feel this is misleading because steel is pretty much the same weight regardless of alloy. Chromoly "can" be lighter only because the rules may allow smaller diameter and/or wall thickness tubing, but it has nothing to do with switching alloys. Switching to chromoly may or may not be an advantage in road racing - it depends what the rules allow. I seem to recall SCCA rules specifying DOM mild steel only, but that was a while ago.
 
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