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Any fault codes?

This thread is 12.5 years old...

Looks like a bot. I replied to another thread like a week ago with that exact same wording (the thread was actually from 2009).

This thread is also from 2009...

The coolant hose just to the left of that hole normally goes there. There is a section of metal pipe that bolts to it then the hose connects to it. The hole where your hose is currently is then blocked with a cap. Some blocks (K24a1/a4/probably others) don't have that hole for the coolant line...

I have a K20A3 head with 4 or 8 bent valves.

The A1 head has a different water passage setup than the A4, you cannot directly swap them. Did you already take that into consideration?

Check out the YouTube channel "Pirate Garage". He has some videos up from earlier this year of AWD converting a K swapped EM2/ES1. EM2/ES1 share the same platform as the DC5 (more or less). I have been wanting to do this for years.

Pretty sure the OEM belt is 7 ribs.

Nope, just make sure you torque it down properly and you will not have any issues.

You will need a deep-set 12 mm socket (or use a wrench).

Not too difficult to replace. You will have to remove the valve cover though. Torque spec for the bolt is 16 lb ft, torque spec for the cap nut for the valve cover is 7.2 lb ft.

Glad to hear you got it fixed!

The a3 harness will not have a connector for the reverse lockout. Other than that everything should connect just fine. But if you're going to use the K20a ECU you must use an adapter harness or re-pin your a3 harness to match.

I don't think there is a fault for the reverse lockout. I cannot find any reference to one in the service manual anyways.

There are also a few threads here over K swapping EM2/ES1. https://www.civicforums.com/forums/79-engine-swaps

Accord subframe will not bolt up to the EM2. RSX or EP3 subframe is what you need. Lots of info at the link below to start your research. https://www.k20a.org/threads/how-to-k20a-k24a-into-em2.39633/

Camshafts are in time with each other. Can you also snap a pic of the crank pulley lined up with the mark on the timing cover? Also, did you assemble the engine or was it already assembled when you swapped?

You may want to consider checking engine timing with all those crank/cam sensor faults. Oh I see you already did check timing. You need to verify if it is off a tooth or not. That very well could be the root of all your issues.

Below is lots of info on this. K20z3 trans is a high frequency type, EP3 is low frequency type. https://www.hondata.com/tech-k20-transmissions