Hello,
before further hijacking other folks threads clogging them with information, I'll open my own build thread.
Last year, I have started to build the motor for my 1999 S1 Elise.
Before deciding to go Honda, I was running a supercharged Rover K in my Elise for 12 years.
I build this Rover K myself over the years. In the end, it was changed cooled, forged pistons, steel rods, nodular iron liners, Newman ph2 cams, 4-2-1 header, 2.5" exhaust system, direct port water methanol injection.
I have always mapped it myself with the help of my ears, a J&S Safeguard knock control system and a STACK wideband lambda sensor. At some point it made more power on the road than what I can enjoy, was complex and I was missing a 6th gear.
So I decided to do what was overdue and convert to a K20.
Initially I planned for slapping on a JRSC, but for mainly the hazzle of getting it street legal, I skipped the SC part for now. Maybe later.
I bough a swap package from some chaps in Holland. They source theirs in the UK. After doing some leak down tests with numbers hitting 40%, they got me an other motor. This one was not much better.
This is when I decided to rebuild the engine. Unless you can drive the car with the K20 in there, better prepare for a rebuild. For some magic reason, all 2nd hand engines in Europe are below 100000km or 60000 miles :-((
When I disassembled the engine, the bearing shells were worn down to the copper layer, the oil channels of the shells hat molten metal stuck to them and the liners showed blank spots and excessive wear on the sides.
This is when I though about building a stroker.
I got a good price on a ZRP kit consisting of a 93mm crank and their associated rods of 135.5mm. If you want to find out, how a low rod to stroke ratio K will work, this is the opportunity.
As pistons I wanted Mahle Motorsport 87mm pistons with a 4cc dome volume.
All the shops I contacted canceled my order stating that Mahle canceled this particular piston. I had little choice but to go to Supertech as I wanted a piston in a 4032 alloy.
Pin weights deviated by up to 1.3g!!! 3 of them where within 0.8g of each other.
I took me hours to grind off material to end up with 4 perfectly matched sets.
Most weight got removed from the pins bore chamfer on both sides. A little also got removed from the pin bosses of the pistons.
Block was bored and honed with a torque plate. Final hone was a plate hone. It feels smooth sliding with a finger nail love the bores desire them looking matt.
Next was getting all the gauges and figuring out the bearing clearances.
Piston to bore was measured to about 80µm or about 3.1 thou.
Bores were pretty much round with the centres being about 20µm or 0.8 thou bigger. I was explained that he honed them to be round and that it required to take off a tad more on the middle. Better round with the tiny belly than square and perfectly cylindrical.
I found the main journals of the block being hour glass shaped.
In the end I got to the right clearances of about 40 to 45µm using three sizes of KingXP bearing shells.
I had to bend a new set of oil squirters to pass the rotational assembly. I JUST fits with about 30 thou clearance to rods and pistons.
more text and pictures later on.
before further hijacking other folks threads clogging them with information, I'll open my own build thread.
Last year, I have started to build the motor for my 1999 S1 Elise.
Before deciding to go Honda, I was running a supercharged Rover K in my Elise for 12 years.
I build this Rover K myself over the years. In the end, it was changed cooled, forged pistons, steel rods, nodular iron liners, Newman ph2 cams, 4-2-1 header, 2.5" exhaust system, direct port water methanol injection.
I have always mapped it myself with the help of my ears, a J&S Safeguard knock control system and a STACK wideband lambda sensor. At some point it made more power on the road than what I can enjoy, was complex and I was missing a 6th gear.
So I decided to do what was overdue and convert to a K20.
Initially I planned for slapping on a JRSC, but for mainly the hazzle of getting it street legal, I skipped the SC part for now. Maybe later.
I bough a swap package from some chaps in Holland. They source theirs in the UK. After doing some leak down tests with numbers hitting 40%, they got me an other motor. This one was not much better.
This is when I decided to rebuild the engine. Unless you can drive the car with the K20 in there, better prepare for a rebuild. For some magic reason, all 2nd hand engines in Europe are below 100000km or 60000 miles :-((
When I disassembled the engine, the bearing shells were worn down to the copper layer, the oil channels of the shells hat molten metal stuck to them and the liners showed blank spots and excessive wear on the sides.
This is when I though about building a stroker.
I got a good price on a ZRP kit consisting of a 93mm crank and their associated rods of 135.5mm. If you want to find out, how a low rod to stroke ratio K will work, this is the opportunity.
As pistons I wanted Mahle Motorsport 87mm pistons with a 4cc dome volume.
All the shops I contacted canceled my order stating that Mahle canceled this particular piston. I had little choice but to go to Supertech as I wanted a piston in a 4032 alloy.
Pin weights deviated by up to 1.3g!!! 3 of them where within 0.8g of each other.
I took me hours to grind off material to end up with 4 perfectly matched sets.
Most weight got removed from the pins bore chamfer on both sides. A little also got removed from the pin bosses of the pistons.
Block was bored and honed with a torque plate. Final hone was a plate hone. It feels smooth sliding with a finger nail love the bores desire them looking matt.
Next was getting all the gauges and figuring out the bearing clearances.
Piston to bore was measured to about 80µm or about 3.1 thou.
Bores were pretty much round with the centres being about 20µm or 0.8 thou bigger. I was explained that he honed them to be round and that it required to take off a tad more on the middle. Better round with the tiny belly than square and perfectly cylindrical.
I found the main journals of the block being hour glass shaped.
In the end I got to the right clearances of about 40 to 45µm using three sizes of KingXP bearing shells.
I had to bend a new set of oil squirters to pass the rotational assembly. I JUST fits with about 30 thou clearance to rods and pistons.
more text and pictures later on.