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#1 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 626
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Hi everyone...
I searched the board and didn't come up with any thread w/ pics on how to construct fuel lines, so I thought may as well do a little writeup about the process. Although there are lots of other useful and relevant threads, there wasn't any particular one which I found that had a step-by-step how-to. Materials & Tools List: > -6AN Fuel Line Hose (Summit Racing) - 6 ft. > Hose Ends, other fuel fittings > Electrical Tape or other equivalent tape (to prevent SS wire braids from fraying) >Bench Vise or Really strong friend >Rotary Tool (Dremel, Craftsman), Angle Grinder (w/ cutting wheel), or a Hacksaw (fine teeth). Process: Step 1: >>Take the fuel line and mark w/ electrical tape where you want it cut. -When wrapping electrical tape on the hose, do a few or more passes around the place marked for cutting. ![]() Step 2: >>Put the fuel line in a vice or get another person to hold the line in place while you prepare to cut it. ![]() >>Use a rotary tool to cut the fuel lines at the desired length. ![]() >>This is what the line looks like afterwards. ![]() ![]() Thing to be aware of: -Be sure that cuts are clean and level so that when you push the fuel line through the fitting, the inner rubber hose sits flushly against the inner radius of the fitting. -Make sure that when you cut the fuel hose, that there is little fraying of those braided wires. (They can be a bitch...) -If you wrapped too much tape around the hose, you may want to take out a few layers, but still leave it on. Some people will prefer just taking it off, but I think it better to leave it on, since it forms a tighter fitting. >>Now separate the fuel fitting ends... ![]() ![]() >>Take a little bit of engine oil or any oil based lubricant and dab it on the cut fuel hose end and the separated fitting end in which the fuel line is gonna go into. ![]() >>Put the fitting end in the bench vise or in the hands of a capable friend, and slowly begin to squeeze the fuel line in. If the metal wires are frayed, you might have to retrim w/ the rotary tool or just use a small flat head screw driver to push the wires in the fitting end while pushing the hose in. When you push the hose in, rotate it slightly, as I found it a little easier to get into the fitting end. ![]() ![]() ![]() -Check to see whether the fuel line is sitting flushly inside the fitting end. They should be no gaps between the inner rubber hose and fitting end when fuel will be flowing through. - This is how the fuel line should look now. ![]() >>Place the connected fuel line w/ fitting in the bench vise again and put th e male end of the fuel fitting into the hose. Be sure the dab male fitting generously with oil to help it slide through, without pushing the fuel line out the other end as you tighten it. ![]() ![]() Note: while sticking the male fuel fitting in the hose end, be sure to apply opposite pressure by hold the fuel line tightly while in the bench vise in order to prevent it from popping out when sticking in the male fitting end. A good way to do this is to just simply pushing toward or firmly holding the fuel line in place... >>Use an 18mm wrench to tighten the male fitting end into the hose. Be sure to tighten it all the way, and lube as you need it. Do not over tighten the fitting, otherwise it might break. ![]() >>And here's the completed result... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Any further helpful hints or insight are welcome. Let me know if you guys find this helpful. Thanks for looking! |
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#2 |
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K20a.org Basic User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 240
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Are you running your fuel lines from the filter to the rail, then to the FPR? If so, what's the length of the line running from the filter to the rail??
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#3 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Torqueland
Posts: 549
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Very nice write up!
__________________
-Brandon '92 K20R EG SCCA SM/TTE time attack/track whore "Most amateur drivers go too fast in slow corners and too slow in fast corners" Emerson Fittipaldi |
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#4 |
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New Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: twin cities
Posts: 16
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how much did it cost you all together
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#5 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 626
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Thanks! Well heres my complete fuel line parts break down. Just the fuel system parts cost me $72.68 w/o the Fuel Pressure gauge. I had opted to buy the b&m FP gauge which was slightly more than the generic $20.00 ones so with my FP gauge I spent a total of $102.14. It cost me nothing to make them. However, be aware that summit racing charges a $10.95 handling charge regardless of what you are buying. Also, I opted on saving money on fuel fittings so I didn't do the fancy 90 degree and other swivel fittings to dress up the engine bay, instead opted for the simpler and cheaper hose end fittings. But to each is own.
My fuel system setup is going to be based around an Eagle Pro-Series fuel rail and Aeromotive FPR (Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator A1000-6 Injected Bypass). I'm doing the regular style (pump --> fuel filter --> fuel rail --> fpr --> return line) type setup. Summit Racing online: B&M FP Gauge, 0-100 psi, 1 1/2 in, analog, Mechanical BMM-46054 - 1 x $29.88 Earl's Performance External Hex Head Port Plug with O-Ring seal, -6 AN, Aluminum, Blue EAR-581406ERL - 1 x $3.75 blue anodized, pair. Earl's Performance Fitting, hose end, swivel seal, 90 degree, -6 AN hose to female - 6 AN, EAR-809106ERL - 1 x $16.95 aluminum, blue, each Earl's Performance Fitting, coupler, straight, male - 6AN to male -6AN, aluminum, blue. EAR-981506ERL - 3 x $2.95 Earl's Performance Fitting, straight, male, -6AN to straight cut Male -8AN O-ring, aluminum, EAR-985068ERL - 2 x $9.88 Earl's Performance Fitting, adapter, AN flare to metric, - 6an to 12 mm x 1.5 male, EAR-9919DFGERL - 1 x $9.95 aluminum, blue, each. Summit Racing Fitting, Hose end, straight, -6 AN Hose to female -6 AN, aluminum, SUM-220690 - 5 x $4.88 red/blue anodized, each. Summit Racing NPT to nipple, twist-tite, straight male 1/4 inch NPT to -6AN hose barb, SUM-220751 - 1 x $2.95 aluminum, blue anodized, each. Summit Racing Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6AN, 6ft length, SUM-230606 - 1 x $20.95 each. |
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#6 | |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 626
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Quote:
I was thinking about running a measured line, enough so I could save a bit of my 6 ft fuel line to be later used for engine dress-up, but I opted to use the entire 6 ft length, although, summit racing sold me a shorter fuel line a few inches less than 6 ft. I pretty much gave the lines enough slack to route around the engine bay and perhaps tuck them slightly out of sight. I measure 2.5 ft, 2 ft, and 1.5 +- ft. But right now, I haven't decided if I'm going to mount my FPR directly to the fuel rail, or if I'm going to mount it on the chassis. I don't like the idea of mounting the fpr on the fuel rail too much since it could possibly shake itself loose due to the harsh vibrations of k's w/ hasport mounts, but I'm sure there are many of you who can vouch for that placement. I'm most likely leaning towards placing it on the chassis. |
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#7 |
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K20a.org Supporter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,055
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We need more write-ups like this When do you plan to install all this? I have a Summit within 5 minutes of my house, so I'll be using your list |
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#8 | |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 626
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Quote:
in the coming weeks.I've been following your build thread closely as well, when are you planning on doing your fuel setup? You might want to update your fuel parts list with a tube nut and sleeve setup as well for the return line. I think I'm just going to get a fuel hose and just get the fuel clamps for it, but the tube nut and sleeve way is waay cleaner. The last time I checked you were painting the underbody, gas tank, and inner fenders. Have you started painting the exterior yet? |
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#9 | ||||
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K20a.org Supporter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,055
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What is the difference between your $110 setup and this $185 setup? I see you have one 90 degree fitting and the other 2 90's and 1 45 degree. ![]() ![]() |
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#10 | |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 626
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Quote:
Thats good to hear As for the electrical tape, I don't think its necessary to keep it on, and you can make without it for sure. I just found it easier to slip the line into the fitting with the tape in place because it kept the frayed lines in place. But good luck with your build. |
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#11 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 564
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thank you, for your write up, been looking for this for long time
__________________
EM2 K24z3 for strip drag 2008 S2k for weekend 1992 accord for DD |
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#12 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Torqueland
Posts: 549
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Great write up!
__________________
-Brandon '92 K20R EG SCCA SM/TTE time attack/track whore "Most amateur drivers go too fast in slow corners and too slow in fast corners" Emerson Fittipaldi |
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#13 | |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 529
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Quote:
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#14 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 626
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Thanks!
I think we should propose a DIY section for k-swap's into various chassies. I'm sure other members have a lot that they can share as well. |
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#15 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 529
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A diy section has been proposed in the suggestions forum, stop by there and post so nikos see's we really want one, having all these diys in one spot would make finding these threads so much easier
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#16 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 626
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Yeah I think we got one now... Thanks Nikos.
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#17 |
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K20a.org Master User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: So Cali.
Posts: 1,796
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just did my fuel setup today... used neoprene lines instead. to make it easier on yourself to get the fuel line all the way in make sure your turning the line the correct way. it goes in alot smoother or turn the nut the correct way... all in all it was real quick...
__________________
http://www.KARCEPTS.com http://hybrid-racing.com AVOID SHOP161822 in the City of Industry, Ca!!! WORST customer service, major lag, & shitty installs. |
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#18 |
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K20a.org Advanced User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: VICTORIA TEXAS
Posts: 621
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NICE WRITE UP !!! BUT I THINK I RATHER SAVE THE LABOR AND TIME AND JUST BUY THEM ALREADY MADE >>>LOL JUST LAZY I GUESS!!!
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__________________
ONE LOVE CHECK OUT MY BUILD!!! http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23284 ._________________________ |..pmtrII....k24 hatch..........| || |..coming soon!!.................||'|";,___. |_..._...____________=====||_|_|...,] "(@)'(@)""'''''''''''''"'''"**|(@)(@)****"(@) |
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#19 |
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taking cookies...
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: new york
Posts: 3,150
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lol nice job. i usually remove the electrical tape before i put on the hose ends.. but to each his own!
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K series especialist ChameleonTuning.com ENGINE/TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY, DYNO TUNING IN NY |
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#20 |
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Punishin' Bitches
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,437
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I friggin' hate stainless steel lines!!!! Good write up for those that dont know.
__________________
Bolivian k20aMember#1 Punshin' Girls In the A-Hole Just Killing The Competition K20R Motor 12.70@111 On AVS ES 100's *Real Street Tires* |
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