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AXLES!

49K views 124 replies 56 participants last post by  Mat_fr_jdm 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Axles!

ok i have spent over 1200 bucks worth of shitty crap stage blah blah axles this and that blah blah. the stage 2 axle from hasport does not fit in my eg either, it wont go into the tranny all the way, just like the other guy on here. i have tried the stage 1 from hasport, and stage 2. fitment was fine on stage 1, but they snapped. stage 2, fitment was fine on passenger side, too long on drivers side. then bought some stock b series, and stock k series. this is for an eg not sure about ek. the k series outter joint runs a 36mm hub, so unless you have a itr 5 lug you cant use the outter joint/hub. so, after all this bullshit with different axles and what not. i came to find out, the stock k series drivers side axle, with a b series outter joint/hub, fits and holds fine. and on the passenger side,(some of you prob wont even believe it), the splines that go into the half shaft and k series are identical. so i havent tried for perfect fitment yet.....but i can tell you the axles are exact same size, (aftermarket stage 1, and stock b series pass side.) so there is no reason why they shouldnt fit.

so......

(for EK with hasport mounts
drivers side- stock k series inner hub, and shaft, with outter b series hub.
pass side- stock b series outter hub, prelude shaft(92+), k series inner. )<<------------this has not been verified, try at your own risk


for EG with hasport mounts (no prelude axle needed)
drivers side- stock k series inner hub, and shaft, with outter b series hub.
pass side- stock b series outter hub, k series shaft and k series inner hub.


now how fucking easy was that after 20+wasted hours and 1200 bucks worth of axles. :evil:
 
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#5 ·
I'd just like to thank all my sponsors, friends and of course everyone at K20a.org and Especially allmtrallday for being ONE OF the first in the states to try my axle combo..
As for how do they stack up, well on this exact combo I run mid 1.5 60fts on 24.5-9-13 slicks without wheelie bars... Which is prety damn impressive in anyones books.. The only thing to watch out for is that the CV's havent been replaced with NON-HONDA C.V's as the factory ones are about the strongist you can buy... I have made probably over 200 passes down the 1/4 mile on my axles with no problems. I can honestly say given that I have ripped 1 clutch, the Factory ITR diff and 2nd gear assembly to peices tat the axles are not the weakest point of my conversion..

And an extra Note Good Luck with the coming season Allmtrallday I hope these axles treat you the way they treat me.. mid 11's will come your way..
 
#6 ·
K20DC2R said:
damn neil your the axel king now! so your running the stock hybrid axels now? how do they work? hit me up about them seats..!!!!!
i edited the post, anyone swapping a k series should do this axle combo. i found out, even though the stock passenger side b series inner hub fits on the k series half shaft, it will bind. so if you read where i edited, it will give you the recipe for passenger side also. im running the hybrid shown in the first post on the drivers side, and running the 400hp stage 2 in the passenger side. i was at the track this past weekend, on 24.5x8.5x15s launching at any rpm, they held perfect not one problem at all. i didnt get my money back from hasport yet! i would just cancel the charge on my card, but i bought them from rcrew, and dont want to have them be fucked out of there money, because rcrew is a legit hook up and its not there fault. but i did talk to someone from hasport, and they said they would see what they could work out, between rcrew and them. chris, ive been busy man, too much stuff going on too many projects, ill have to hold off on the seats, so if you find a buyer sell em. oh yeah, chris, with the axle in your case, you run 36mm axle nut with the 5 lug, the drivers side should fit perfectly, the passenger side you will have to find a prelude shaft.
 
#7 ·
Thank you very much!!!!!!!!!!

Click the link in my sig to see the delay ordering HASPORT axles has put my project and me to. To read from your experiences that the HASPORT axles are likely to break anyway is very disheartening!!! :(

I guess I'll be making some light work for my K and B series axles to have a spare set.

Now where the hell do I find Prelude axles from?....I've searched high and low.... Does anyone know if any other axle out there uses a shaft the same length as the Prelude?

Are 1st gen CRV shafts too long? How about axles from the Element? I'll have the shop that's doing my swap look at those first.
 
#11 ·
Axles can be messy. All you need is a screw driver, hammer and towels...

just buy some new boots with the grease and you are in business

The clamps, they have little fasteners on them. Thats where the screw driver comes into play.The clamps fold over.
Unfold them with the screw driver. Once those are loose,
the clamps will come undone.
Then slip off the boot and all the grease

:)

Thank you Todd for the info!
 
#12 ·
ok if i wasnt already done with this i would have taken pic by pic on how to. next time i make some i will for sure.

for inner joint- remove the clamp holding the boot on the joint, slide the boot back, pull the joint off the shaft, slide the new one on, the inside hubs/joints are very easy they slide right off.

outter joints- this gets a little more tricky, once again remove the hose clamp, (i would recomend using the b series boot on the outter joints, rsx is too big), pull the boot back, hold the axle down really hard, if you have a vice that would work best, if not put the axle on a seat or somekind of table, have someone stand on the axle so it holds in place, and bang the outter hub off with a hammer, the outside of the hub will be easily damaged, try and hit it least times as possible, one good firm wack should take it right off. prefferably a sludge hammer too, to give it the extra force it needs.
 
#13 ·
allmtrallday said:
ok if i wasnt already done with this i would have taken pic by pic on how to. next time i make some i will for sure.

for inner joint- remove the clamp holding the boot on the joint, slide the boot back, pull the joint off the shaft, slide the new one on, the inside hubs/joints are very easy they slide right off.

outter joints- this gets a little more tricky, once again remove the hose clamp, (i would recomend using the b series boot on the outter joints, rsx is too big), pull the boot back, hold the axle down really hard, if you have a vice that would work best, if not put the axle on a seat or somekind of table, have someone stand on the axle so it holds in place, and bang the outter hub off with a hammer, the outside of the hub will be easily damaged, try and hit it least times as possible, one good firm wack should take it right off. prefferably a sludge hammer too, to give it the extra force it needs.
Thanks, i didn't realize it was that easy. Good info, Gonna go out and get me a spare set. I'll probably end up breaking my Hasport ones.. :(
 
#14 ·
drhonda said:
Thanks, i didn't realize it was that easy. Good info, Gonna go out and get me a spare set. I'll probably end up breaking my Hasport ones.. :(
Hahahaha! My HASPORT axles WON't break, and they're stage 1 to boot. But that's because I don't have them yet and can't break them.
 
#20 ·
#2 said:
allmtrallday said:
EDIT:pass side- stock b series outter hub, prelude shaft(92+), k series outter.
Kinda confused here. Did you mean B series outter, prelude shaft, and k series inner?

Also, will any 92+ (passenger side i assume?) prelude shaft work?

Thanks
hahahaha my bad......any prelude axle will work. and yes that is wrong i will fix the post, it is k series inner, prelude shaft, b series outter.

thanks for noticing. :wink:
 
#21 ·
allmtrallday said:
Luder94 said:
[

Hahahaha! My HASPORT axles WON't break, and they're stage 1 to boot. But that's because I don't have them yet and can't break them.
i was going to say you havent been driving the way you are supposed to then. haha. they will, especially if you drag race. oem axles. :wink:
Traction bars prevent 99% of axles breakage of stock/stage 1 axles in applications under 400whp
 
#24 ·
joestypes said:
allmtrallday said:
Luder94 said:
[

Hahahaha! My HASPORT axles WON't break, and they're stage 1 to boot. But that's because I don't have them yet and can't break them.
i was going to say you havent been driving the way you are supposed to then. haha. they will, especially if you drag race. oem axles. :wink:
Traction bars prevent 99% of axles breakage of stock/stage 1 axles in applications under 400whp
ive never heard that. can you explain? prob something to do with torque stress i would think?
 
#25 ·
Man I'm still pisssssss about my Hasport stage 2 axle. I drive my car not even once a week because of the axle. They still don't fit on the driverside. The first set I return it to get a different one but still don't fit. Come on Hasport. Why does my stock dc5 axle fit fine but not stage 2?
 
#26 ·
Please understand that this is not the fault of Hasport. Driveshaftshop makes the axles for both Hasport and Hybrid-Racing. Please give us a call and we will have it handled for you, by having the Driveshaftshop call you and get the problem solved.

Sorry for the trouble..
 
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