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Another Noble M400 K24 Build

25K views 86 replies 10 participants last post by  LotusElise 
#1 · (Edited)
After seeing a few shops build a K powered Noble, I figured it was time for the DIYer to give it a shot. I'll be covering my progress of the build as I go thru it. A lot of this will just be me rambling to help me figure out what to do.

Here's the car:



For those who don't know, the car is a 2007 Noble M400. Normally, this car is motivated by a Ford 3.0 V6 Duratec with two GT28 turbos slapped on it and a Ford Mondeo gearbox bolted to it. Stock, they make about 425bhp. The engines tend to oil starve on left-hand turns, generate a lot of heat between the engine and firewall...which melts wires, remapping the MBE ECU costs $2000, parts are a mixture of Ford US and Ford UK parts bin... which is annoying. So, there's a handful of annoyances with the Ford powerplant.

Mine currently makes 435whp/410tq on 91 pump gas w/ 18.5psi.
The goal is to get to that or better, although with much less torque.
I also track this car and drive it around town occasionally, so drive-ability will be key, as well as basic creative comforts.

Build:

Engine

Gearbox

Electronics

Additional Motivation

Exhaust -- All Custom

Miscellaneous BS That No One Ever Tells You That You'll Need/Want

Crap I Still Need
- miscellaneous little things, like hoses, fittings, TPS, etc.

Things That Need To Be Done To Complete the Swap
Engine mounts

- These need to be custom made. Pretty straight forward, place engine in engine bay, line up hub holes with gearbox, making sure everything is straight and level. Honda engine sits at a slight angle, tilted towards the exhaust side (rearward of the car).

Driveaxles
- Once the engine mounts are made, measurements can be taken for the driveaxles. Currently estimated at 17" for driver side; 20.75" for passenger.

Throttle cable
- Need to reroute the cable to the left side of the engine bay. Throttle body actuates from the left side of the engine vs. Ford's right side. The hole for the throttle cable on the cam on the throttle body needs to be enlarged just slightly for the Noble throttle cable to fit. Then a bracket will be made to hold the cable at an appropriate angle and distance to ensure full range of the pedal.

Clutch Line
- The Honda slave is threaded for m10x1.25, the Noble clutch line is -4an. Buy a fitting (make sure it's reversed flared) and you now have your Noble clutch line.

Shift linkage
- I'm using a K-Tuning shifter box and the RSX shifter cables. Cut the ends off, tap the ends with 1/4-28 thread, add some rod/heim ends, bolt it up. On the gearbox, cut the studs off the gear selector mechanism, drill holes, add 6mm bolts to mount the rod ends with. Alternatively, find larger rod/heim ends for the larger studs on the gearbox.
Then, build brackets to hold the cables in place.

AC Compressor
- Using the Honda AC compressor. Will make custom fittings to mount the Noble lines.

PS Pump
- Using a Honda PS pump, will require a fitting to connect the Honda pump to the Noble lines. Pretty easy stuff too.

* Wiring *
  • Biggest item, since it'll take the most time.
  • Make sure you have the Noble build manual. It'll save you a TON of headaches.
  • You'll need the EP3 Civic under dash harness. Look for 2002-2003 Civic Si, and make sure it has the E plug, the C101 plug, and the OBD2 Port. It should come with a set of relays (Main, Fuel / Main 2, and AF relay)

Relays
  • Starter Relay: You can use the Noble's or use a Honda one. I choose the Honda one, just to keep everything similar. Easy to wire up.
  • AC Relay: Again, Noble or Honda. I choose Honda. Run the chassis signal to the relay, then the output to the ECU. Then have the Vtec Pressure control engage the AC clutch.
  • Main Relay: Honda. Wire it up as identified in Hondata's site
  • Fuel Pump Relay: Honda. Same, send the fuel pump signal to the Noble fuel pump.
  • O2 Relay: Optional... but required if you want to use Honda's primary O2.
  • Reverse Relay: Noble has the reverse wiring in the chassis harness. Honda has it in the engine harness. Connect the wires together between the reverse switch on the Noble side. Cut the wire near the tunnel, run the signal wire to a relay. The input of the relay is from the ECU (C101 pin1). This gets a signal from the reverse switch. Ground C2 somewhere. When you engage reverse, it grounds the relay and you now have a reverse light.


Random Wiring Thoughts
  • Ignition signal is on the Noble RR03 plug, that'll connect to the Honda's E9 pin
  • Starter. Noble has the starter solenoid mounted on the chassis, uses the starter signal wire from the relay and energizes the solenoid to send power to the starter via the thick wire on the opposite pole. Honda has the starter solenoid attached to the starter. I kept the Noble starter solenoid as a power distribution block, removed the starter signal wire and wired that to the Honda's C101 16 pin. Connect the Honda's starter hot wire to the battery (or hot side of the Noble starter solenoid) and viola, ignition/starter works.

MIL (optional)
- Add a LED for the "Check Engine Light", this will make it OBD2 compliant, as well as helpful if there's an issue with the engine

OBD2 Port
  • So it can pass smog, as well as the other benefits of the OBD2 port.
  • Most of these wires will be wired to the ECU.


Engine Build #2
The 1st engine I put in the car to make sure everything works was a stock K24A2, minus the VTC gear and the RSX-S oil pump. Otherwise, internally stock.
Engine number 2 will be a built, sleeved, and lunatic motor.
  • Darton MID Sleeves - Bought used but NIB - $600
  • 87mm CP Pistons 10:1 (CPP-SC7046) - $586
  • Manley Turbo Tuff rods (MAN-14405-4) - $781
  • Cometic head gasket 87mm (CMT-C4311-030) - $90
  • Supertech 100lb valve springs - (SPRK-H1020D) - $340
  • Supertech valve guides (SUP-GDE-HK55-I-8 / SUP-GDE-HK55-E-8) - $80

Not sure what cams to go with yet, let alone valves. I plan on using the K24 head. May also do the larger intake manifold, but still unsure.





Current Setup
610whp / 409tq
Best ET: 10.7
Best Trapspeed: 147mph

Engine
  • JDM K24A
  • CP Pistons, 87MM, 10:1
  • Manly Turbo Tuff i-beam Con rods
  • Darton MID sleeves, rods, pistons, crank blueprinted/balanced, all installed by Darton
  • Drag Cartel 2.2 Camshafts
  • Supertech complete valvetrain (valves, springs, locks, keepers, guides, seals)
  • Headwork built by Fuchs Cylinder Heads in Las Vegas
  • Honda OEM headgasket
  • L19 headbolts
  • Kpro V4 ECU
  • KTuned Upper Coolant Adapter
  • KTuned Thermostat Housing V2
  • KTuned RBC Adapter
  • Engine harness custom made with milspec TXL wiring, sheathing, heatshrink, and a circular disconnect, using all new honda connectors and pins; Made by me
  • Moroso Road Race oil pan
  • K20A Oil Pump, balance shafts removed
  • RSX VTC Gear, pinned to 45'.



Intake / Fuel
  • GTX35R twin-scroll, 1.06AR turbo
  • TurboSmart GenV ProGate, 50mm Wastegate
  • Custom Manifold by VirtualWorks in Las Vegas (of Supra and GTR fame)
  • Custom Exhaust, built by me
  • Custom Downpipe, built by me
  • Spoon 70mm throttle body
  • RBC Intake Manifold, ported to match TB.
  • 1300CC Injector Dynamics
  • Karcepts Fuel Rail- DW350il fuel pump
  • Synapse BOV
  • Noble factory intercooler



Transmission
  • Quaife Sequential Transmission, QKE8J
  • Geartronics flatshift Gearbox Control Unit, loadcell, and display
  • Drive Shaft Shop custom length axles, CV joints, and hubs
  • Exedy Twin-Disk Clutch and flywheel (hm032sbl)
  • Clutch Master hydraulic release bearing


Misc Engine/Chassis
  • Blox Oil filter relocation kit
  • Dry break oil line connectors
  • Dry break clutch line connector
  • Dry break fuel line connector
  • Dry break gearbox cooler connector
  • Stainless Steel AN lines for oil, fuel, and clutch throughout
  • Aluminum hardlines for turbo coolant lines, replacing the silicon lines
  • Front mount Setrab Oil Cooler, removed side pod oil cooler
  • 5x114.3 conversion to Mazda 3 hubs

Wheels
  • Kansei KNP 17x9 ~22 for track
  • Konig Dekagram 18x8.5 ~35 (F) and 18x9.5 ~35 (R) for street.
  • ARP extended studs on all corners

Interior
  • AEM CD7LG dash
  • Redesign of center console, removed gauges, moved HVAC controls lower, relocated radio to center. HVAC temp gauge is now drive-by-wire vs cabled
  • Simpson 6 point harnesses dr/pass
  • Fire suppression system, 3 port.
  • Audi TT shifter ring and vents
  • Pioneer Bluetooth Radio
  • LED bulbs in gauges
  • USB and cig port on rear interior light
  • Moved starter button to dash under water temp gauge
  • Removed fog-lamp button; Not needed for USDM cars
  • Added metal Datalog button on center console

Exterior
  • APR GTC500 wing
  • Difflow diffuser
  • Sectional division of belly tray with nutserts for better installation.
  • Aerocatches on rear clam, replaced the other 1/4 turn retainers with QuikLatch push button retainers
  • Replaced cracked headlamp covers. This sucked to do. Cutting the headlamps out is painful.
  • Painted headlamp buckets black, instead of being body-colored.
  • Installed Sealed3 Morimoto 90mm LED headlamps; They use less amperage and produce more light.
 
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1
#2 · (Edited)
Parts List Needed:
- K24A2
- Starter
- Alternator
- AC Compressor
- Power steering pump
- engine / charge harness

Parts List Acquired:
- GT3582R twin scroll - $1630
- 1300cc deatschwerk injectors - $380
- PLX wideband - $200
- KPro PRB - $1150
- RBC intake manifold; bored out to 70mm - $310 ($235+$75 for boring)
- Karcepts RBC Adapter w/ ports - $70
- Skunk2 70mm TB - $360
- Synchronic 50mm Wastegate w/ boost control - $850 ($390 + $450 w/ bc & flanges)
- Competition Clutch stage 4 w/ 8lb flywheel - $630
- K20 oil pump kit w/ Tensioner - $345
- Hondata 4 bar MAP - $100
- 45' VTC - $235
- Moroso Oil Pan - $350
- Blox oil filter relocation kit - $80
- Gearbox; X2M5 w/ PNN4 LSD (K20A2 w/ K20Z3 LSD); $1780
- Intermediate shaft (used) - $125 (Ebay)
- Hondata intake gasket - $35
- throttle body thermal gasket (70mm) - $15
- K tuned map plug - $12
- Custom IACV block
- Custom IAA plug and cap
- Vacuum Manifold - $40
- Oil block cross, 1/8" NPT (for oil feed and sensors) - $6
- 1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb (for brake booster) - $5
- GT35 Oil drain w/ 1/2" NPT - $12
- 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb for oil drain/return - $20 (for 2)
- 3" V-band for GT35 to exhaust - $20
- O2 sensor bung - $5

Long Term Parts List:
- Quaife Sequential gearbox
- Motec C127 display dash
 
#3 ·
Love these cars. I didnt realize people were putting K series in them.

I have some parts you might be interested in.

Starter, Alternator, Aluminum oil pan, new K20a2 oil pump modified to fit k24, and a circuit hero oil pan baffle that is also new.

PM me if your interested in this stuff. I also have alot more available.
 
#4 ·
Love these cars. I didnt realize people were putting K series in them.
I only know of two so far... one by KMC and another by Carolina Dyno (they posted their build on this forum). I'm sure they've both done a few others.

Starter, Alternator, Aluminum oil pan, new K20a2 oil pump modified to fit k24, and a circuit hero oil pan baffle that is also new.
I'll PM you, thanks!
 
#7 ·
Very nice mid-engine concept...

...2007 Noble M400.
...that's the right way for doing a transportation vehicle :D!

...Ford 3.0 V3 Duratec with two GT28 turbos slapped on it and a Ford Mondeo gearbox bolted to it.
Gluck, gluck, gluck, gluck...aaaaaahhhhhhh...pretty good step up in terms of engine efficiency :D. Fords Duratec 30 engine series isn't well known for its efficiency or high power character, it's follower, the Ford Ecotec 2.0 l I4 at least for the first :D. I am curious how much drop in fuel consumption you got with that kind of downsizing?

You mentioned the upcoming heat of the Ford engine setup. Did the K-series step also better that item significant too (more clearance and better venting of enginebay, one TC less)?

...06-08 K24A2...GT3582R twin scroll...
I like your choose, simple and cost efficient :up:. How much weight reduction did you get through that step and where do you want to see the weight to power ratio next? My actual mid-engine build is a NA high engine speed concept with the goal of low 2.4 kg/hp :D

...LSD (...K20Z3 LSD)
Interesting...do you have any track experience with that type of LSD?

Miscellaneous BS That No One Ever Tells You That You'll Need/Want...
Yes :up:...my actual work during train time to work...since two days I am writting on that list :wow:. Thanks man for that inspiration and quality of your list, you posted here :up:...need to add some crap parts to my list now :D

Since I'm doing all of this out of my garage, I don't have the luxury/budget of a full shop ... so a lot of this will be trial/error for the fab stuff.
I would love to see your reports here about your trial/error fab stuff, especially of the header :D

So, this happened, pushing the KSwap sooner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dx2WJ4fif9E
Great insight of your engine and car :D. Best "Love the Ring"...very sympathic passion for the Nürburgring :D. Are you still in the break in phase of the new parts?

Would love to see an insight of the build up process of the engine and the marriage of chassis and engine :D.

Anyway congrats to the successfully marriage of chassis and engine and thanks for posting here...very nice build thread of a raw mid-engine concept :up:

Markus
 
#8 ·
Re: Very nice mid-engine concept...

...that's the right way for doing a transportation vehicle :D!
She sure is pretty!


I am curious how much drop in fuel consumption you got with that kind of downsizing?
Oddly enough, the Pherd motor did alright on the freeway, netting 28-29 mpg. City driving, 14-15mpg.

You mentioned the upcoming heat of the Ford engine setup. Did the K-series step also better that item significant too (more clearance and better venting of enginebay, one TC less)?
Not having it completely done yet, but others who have, say the underhood temps are definitely lower.

I like your choose, simple and cost efficient :up:. How much weight reduction did you get through that step and where do you want to see the weight to power ratio next? My actual mid-engine build is a NA high engine speed concept with the goal of low 2.4 kg/hp :D
It's been suggested there's close to 150lbs / 70kg... so, at my previous 435whp, if I match that with the K24, I'll improve my lb/hp from 5.7lbs/hp to
5.4lbs/hp (2.6kg/hp -> 2.45kg/hp respectively)

Interesting...do you have any track experience with that type of LSD?
I previously had a S2000... so I'd imagine they are the same.
 
#9 ·
Wiring update...

Gotta figure out how to make this rat's nest:


...talk to this rat's nest:


... and live happily and without domestic violence.


the work bench:



Have printouts of:
- RSX-S ecu pinout (from Hondata)
- EP3 C101 / E Plug pinout (from the internets)
- Noble chassis wiring (from Noble)
 
#11 ·
All the parts, minus the engine:



Oh, and the engine temporarily mounted:


Need to finalize that exact placement of the engine and to avoid too much of an alignment difference with the axles.

I have plenty of room in the clam to raise the engine, very little to lower, since I'm using a moroso oil pan, which is a bit lower than a stock pan.

Right now, I have about a 3" height difference between the gearbox and the hubs. I'll have to put the car on the ground to see how the suspension will settle to determine if I need the drivetrain lower.
 
#12 ·
Nice insight of a Noble M400 K24 Build

Hi AngryScotsman, awsome progress-work place-pictures :up: :D

...I'll have to put the car on the ground to see how the suspension will settle to determine if I need the drivetrain lower.
Nice insight view of the Noble M400 :D. Do you have a goal for the engine and drive axle angle? These two angles - in addition with the length axis position of the engine - and their consequence for the barycenter are often discussed in the Lotus-engine-builder-scene:
  • weight and driving balance
  • heat from friction of the axle joints due to angled operation
  • clearance for header and intake routing
  • accessability of the enginebay
  • axle movement in terms of plain bearing movement due to height vibration/movement during driving over a not perfect flat track :D
  • and so on...
as every application finds different optima. Many of them built their own one, even there are already existing bolts on solutions available. With that in mind, I am really curious about your approach on that.

Markus
 
#14 ·
Good progress this past weekend.

Managed to get all the engine mounts finalized. I'll have a V3 out of CNC or whatever in the future...but for now, it's in.

I redid the wiring. Instead of running the wiring loom thru the engine bay like Noble did, I ended up pushing it thru the passenger cabin at the tunnel. I used another circular connector to connect all of the Noble chassis wiring (ie. radiator fan relay, ignition signal, starter signal, etc) and mounted it in the same spot as the removable panel for accessing the e-brake adjuster.

Also replaced all of the Noble engine bay relays with Honda micro relays, and kept those behind the passenger seat as well.

The only wires I have left to make is the starter/alternator ends for the battery, wire up the boost controller to the ECU, and run a wire from the VTEC Pressure switch to the AC compressor to engage the clutch. I have a MIL that I need to figure out where to put. After redoing my dash panel, I'm a little reluctant to drill another hole for a light.

Best thing, the shifter is finalized. Honda gearboxes are some of the best feeling shifters ever, and it's glorious being able to row thru the gears with no slop, or confusion! No more J motions to find reverse... Added benefit with the K-tuned shifter, it's highly adjustable. You can adjust the throws, how tall you want the shift knob, how far you want it from the dash panel, etc, etc.

Driveaxles are on order, who knows when I'll get them though. Then begins the next fun part of the build.... the turbo manifold. I've considered just putting a simple/cheap header on the engine and driving it around to make sure everything works before I add the turbo. But, not sure I want to drive the car around without any power. The desire to want to drive it is eating at me though :/
 
#16 ·
Good progress

Just need the turbo manifold built and the exhaust... then to tuning.
Wow, that's a great progress AngryScotsman! Looks really shiny :D.

But, not sure I want to drive the car around without any power. The desire to want to drive it is eating at me though :/
LOL...do it :D! You hopefully tune on street or dyno before desire feeding?
 
#18 ·
Re: Good progress

Love it. Some weight may be able to be shed and lines could be cleaned up (if modifying them anyway) with by going to a mr2 electric power steering pump.
The EPSP is a future change. I didn't want to do too much right off the bat.
Other change will be an electric water pump too.



Got the Drive Shaft Shop driveaxles last night. Jesus christ, the driver side (left side) was a royal PITA to get seated. Good news is, I measured correctly. :)

I was able to back the car out of the garage and pull it back in... it doesn't like to idle or run very well. Once I get the turbo manifold built and the exhaust fabbed, I can worry about tuning it. Right now, I just start it without an exhaust manifold... so it has no O2 sensors that read properly...which I imagine isn't playing too well for the tune.

Coolant lines are almost finalized. I ordered the Hybrid Racing upper coolant housing, which doesn't have a filler neck option. So, I had to order a KTuned one to get that... gonna have to sell the Hybrid Racing one once I get that all figured out.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Given the high quality of both the car and your work, has a dry sump oil system been considered? It is about the single best thing for an engine, especially one used on-track. It would also allow you more freedom on engine placement.

Yes, they're very expensive but I don't have any regrets adding one. Just switching to the dry sump lowered my on-track oil temperature by about 30 deg.
 
#24 ·
Brought the car to the dyno to get it tuned, since I got the exhaust system all done, as well as the charge pipes completed.

Get it to the tuner and the tuner noticed the MAP sensor wasn't reading right (showing -29psi with key on)... I never noticed it, but ok. I have the Hondata 4 bar MAP sensor, and the setting in KPro was set correctly.

Changed the setting to the stock MAP, still nothing... -29psi. Disconnected the MAP, still -29psi.

Tried a different MAP sensor, no change.

Testing the wiring, checking for continuity to the ECU, as well as 5v... all sound.

So, it appears the ECU is damaged, sent it back to be tested/repaired.
In the mean time, I ordered another MAP sensor. I also borrowed a friend's ECU with a V1 KPro installed.

With the stock MAP sensor setting, plug in the Hondata MAP sensor, shows -29psi, disconnected, +10psi.

Fun.
 
#27 ·
Got the new MAP Sensor and ECU... was able to set the MAP sensor and get everything running right.

Took it to the tuner on Wednesday and was having problems getting the VTC to adjust cam angles.

CAMCMD would show, say, 10'.
CAM would show 10'.
Datalog would show 0'.

Locking the VTC at a specific angle worked, but it wouldn't go adjust according to the map. Fun.

With that, the VTC locked at 40', engine made 356whp/298tq at 7psi.

I'm shooting for 450whp... and hoping torque doesn't go much higher, otherwise I'll be investing in a lot of gearboxes.

Tuner is working with Hondata to figure out why the VTC won't follow the map.

For the time being, 6.8lbs/hp will suffice... just a tad bit more than a C7Z.
 
#28 ·
CAMCMD would show, say, 10'...CAM would show 10'...Datalog would show 0'.
Did you investigate the VTC look mechanism, VTC oil control valve, #1 cam tower oil passage and oil pressure level? Just some questions for your tuner...

...engine made 356whp/298tq at 7psi...
I'm shooting for 450whp... and hoping torque doesn't go much higher, otherwise I'll be investing in a lot of gearboxes.
There is no hope as long as you don't extend redline :D.

Is there a sound video available of the engine running and idling?

Markus
 
#37 · (Edited)
From your screen name I got the impression you were from Europe, so metric...
I would say, from the landscape of the first thread picture, USA, California :D...this impression is just out of films, I never was there. Would like to drive route one from north to south alongside the Rocky Mountains through different climate zones...but maybe this is somewhere eastside of Rockies like in Nevada...

...anyway, pretty heavy chassis. Therefore the turbo :D. Is it a grid-pipe constructed frame?
 
#44 · (Edited)
Been a few months since last updated.

Have done about five track days and an autocross now with the car and I'm still getting use to the car. Here's the breakdown of the events.

April, 2016 - Speedventures event at Spring Mountain -- Turbo failure. Turbo feed line gets debris, blocks port, bearing dies a tragic death. Turbo replaced with brand new unit.
Synapse wastegate vacuum line also falls apart due to the excessive heat at the barb fitting. There's no way to change the fitting to a proper AN or teflon line, because bad design. Replace lines with silicon vacuum lines

May, 2016 - PCA event at Spring Mountain -- Synapse wastegate failure, again. The vacuum line falls apart, even after using silicon lines and tons of heat wrap. Gets internally cooked. Replace lines and reroute.
Video of the event

June, 2016 - NASA TT event at Miller in Utah -- Synapse wastegate total failure. Wastegate top hat comes partially unbolted and doesn't regulate boost. TT3 cars are running away from me in the straight, despite the car being a TT1 car. Vacuum line also dies another tragic death. Replaced wastegate and lines, again.
Video of the event

Drove the car around on the street then pulled the intercooler to check the WG temp... 420F / 215C. No wonder why the vac lines keep failing.

September, 2016 - PCA event at Spring Mountain -- Synapse wastegate failure again. Vac lines fail. But, least I get spring pressure. 8psi, instead of the 10-12psi it's tuned on. Pull wastegate and toss it into the trash. Replace it with a JGS 50mm wastegate, since it has the same flange sizes as the Synapse. No welding changes! Also, the JGS has proper fittings, so I change the fittings to AN3 with telfon lines. Reroute the lines again.
Video of the event

September, 2016 - Autocross with LVRSCCA -- Working as expected! But, it's not a good test, since temps don't get as high. Even took 2nd RAW time out of 120 some odd cars.
Video of the event

October, 2016 - VTEC Club at Streets -- Everything runs as expected! I haven't gotten retuned with the new wastegate, so was only making 9psi, but no WG issues whatsoever!
Video of the event


And a random video of the car on the street, get an idea of how it sounds:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClWRiWJMeT0


Going to the tuner tomorrow for a retune with the new gate and get a tune on a mixture of 91/100, to get that 450whp I wanted initially, then back it back down to something reasonable.

Then, November is a PCA event at INDE near Tucson, then Musselman the following day.
 
#45 ·
Been a few months since last updated
Pretty nice update AngryScotsman. It is good you could solve most issues and you are ready now for a final 450 whp tune :D.

How much boost did you make to increase IAT to 215 °C. With a compressor isentropic efficiency of around 74 % you would get that IAT at about 4 bar of absolute pressure. Just curious about your setup :D.

Doing Autocross with such a high power to weight ratio is pretty fun...just saw that huge AutoX course video of you...but I really would miss the load response to be able to get more precise pre- and after bend connections...or was it someon...äähh thing else :wink:?!

Very nice project result :up:...I really like it! I am looking forward to see the final tuning result here too :D.

Markus
 
#47 ·
I suppose my mr2 wants to be something like a Noble or Elise.
Those high power to weight ratio RWD cars are most fun to drive...it's good to have such projects here at K20a.org, as those enginebays are mostly tiny, have to have a high heat production reduction technique for the enginebay space, a side or top scoop induction path, and so on...a lot of issues a Honda FWD chassis don't have, beside the custom engine mount and positioning stuff :D.

I look forward to future mods (since it is never enough)
Me too!
 
#53 ·
December update.

Ran Musselman near Tucson, AZ. Opted out of the PCA event. Car ran fine, except that I sheared 4th gear doing a 8psi pull. Fun.


So, I pulled the drivetrain out.

Opened the box and found this:


Least I did it right. Next up, quaife sequential -- although I have a ton of questions about it before I pull the trigger.



With the drivetrain out, might as well add the Toyota EHPS pump, get rid of some complexity on the engine, as well as remove another belt driven item. Will also be wiring the VSS to it too. I plan on leaving it powered anytime the car is on, instead of a manual switch. Nobles have a very high amount of caster (10' or so):




Also redid some of the wiring that has annoyed me. Integrated my plx sensor wiring into the engine harness wiring, as well as moved some wiring around so the chassis wiring is a bit cleaner.

I'm also planning on wiring up the launch control to the KPro.



I had planned on doing a lot of this during the summer of 2017, but -- broken gearbox moved that up a bit.
 
#55 ·
...except that I sheared 4th gear doing a 8psi pull...
Sorry to read that man. Seems to be Joe McCarthy' observation...

Joe McCarthy said:
...All K-series 4th gears are weak, 200 lb ft can break them...
...was pretty correct (link to the post of Joe: http://www.k20a.org/forum/showpost.php?p=2014833&postcount=2). I hope you get the general torque capacity stock gearbox issue solved, as 4th gear is just the first in the row, with your approach:

Next up, quaife sequential
One possibility of many. You may better contact K20a.org member ukir, he runs a business around gearbox and internal wheel sets for rallye racing and other kind of hard core racing. He developed his own gearbox...he knows everything about gearboxes and he knows the competition there :).

...well add the Toyota EHPS pump, get rid of some complexity on the engine, as well as remove another belt driven item. Will also be wiring the VSS to it too.
In my build thread I did show the option KTuned offers with the water pump removal kit, only the alternator is belt driven, I added a Pierburg CWA200, OEM pump at BMW's 3 and 3.5 liter engines, coolant pump for compensation. Not less complexity, but more flexiblity :D

Markus
 
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