After seeing a few shops build a K powered Noble, I figured it was time for the DIYer to give it a shot. I'll be covering my progress of the build as I go thru it. A lot of this will just be me rambling to help me figure out what to do.
Here's the car:
For those who don't know, the car is a 2007 Noble M400. Normally, this car is motivated by a Ford 3.0 V6 Duratec with two GT28 turbos slapped on it and a Ford Mondeo gearbox bolted to it. Stock, they make about 425bhp. The engines tend to oil starve on left-hand turns, generate a lot of heat between the engine and firewall...which melts wires, remapping the MBE ECU costs $2000, parts are a mixture of Ford US and Ford UK parts bin... which is annoying. So, there's a handful of annoyances with the Ford powerplant.
Mine currently makes 435whp/410tq on 91 pump gas w/ 18.5psi.
The goal is to get to that or better, although with much less torque.
I also track this car and drive it around town occasionally, so drive-ability will be key, as well as basic creative comforts.
Build:
Engine
Gearbox
Electronics
Additional Motivation
Exhaust -- All Custom
Miscellaneous BS That No One Ever Tells You That You'll Need/Want
Crap I Still Need
- miscellaneous little things, like hoses, fittings, TPS, etc.
Things That Need To Be Done To Complete the Swap
Engine mounts
- These need to be custom made. Pretty straight forward, place engine in engine bay, line up hub holes with gearbox, making sure everything is straight and level. Honda engine sits at a slight angle, tilted towards the exhaust side (rearward of the car).
Driveaxles
- Once the engine mounts are made, measurements can be taken for the driveaxles. Currently estimated at 17" for driver side; 20.75" for passenger.
Throttle cable
- Need to reroute the cable to the left side of the engine bay. Throttle body actuates from the left side of the engine vs. Ford's right side. The hole for the throttle cable on the cam on the throttle body needs to be enlarged just slightly for the Noble throttle cable to fit. Then a bracket will be made to hold the cable at an appropriate angle and distance to ensure full range of the pedal.
Clutch Line
- The Honda slave is threaded for m10x1.25, the Noble clutch line is -4an. Buy a fitting (make sure it's reversed flared) and you now have your Noble clutch line.
Shift linkage
- I'm using a K-Tuning shifter box and the RSX shifter cables. Cut the ends off, tap the ends with 1/4-28 thread, add some rod/heim ends, bolt it up. On the gearbox, cut the studs off the gear selector mechanism, drill holes, add 6mm bolts to mount the rod ends with. Alternatively, find larger rod/heim ends for the larger studs on the gearbox.
Then, build brackets to hold the cables in place.
AC Compressor
- Using the Honda AC compressor. Will make custom fittings to mount the Noble lines.
PS Pump
- Using a Honda PS pump, will require a fitting to connect the Honda pump to the Noble lines. Pretty easy stuff too.
* Wiring *
Relays
Random Wiring Thoughts
MIL (optional)
- Add a LED for the "Check Engine Light", this will make it OBD2 compliant, as well as helpful if there's an issue with the engine
OBD2 Port
Engine Build #2
The 1st engine I put in the car to make sure everything works was a stock K24A2, minus the VTC gear and the RSX-S oil pump. Otherwise, internally stock.
Engine number 2 will be a built, sleeved, and lunatic motor.
Not sure what cams to go with yet, let alone valves. I plan on using the K24 head. May also do the larger intake manifold, but still unsure.
Current Setup
610whp / 409tq
Best ET: 10.7
Best Trapspeed: 147mph
Engine
Intake / Fuel
Transmission
Misc Engine/Chassis
Wheels
Interior
Exterior
Here's the car:
For those who don't know, the car is a 2007 Noble M400. Normally, this car is motivated by a Ford 3.0 V6 Duratec with two GT28 turbos slapped on it and a Ford Mondeo gearbox bolted to it. Stock, they make about 425bhp. The engines tend to oil starve on left-hand turns, generate a lot of heat between the engine and firewall...which melts wires, remapping the MBE ECU costs $2000, parts are a mixture of Ford US and Ford UK parts bin... which is annoying. So, there's a handful of annoyances with the Ford powerplant.
Mine currently makes 435whp/410tq on 91 pump gas w/ 18.5psi.
The goal is to get to that or better, although with much less torque.
I also track this car and drive it around town occasionally, so drive-ability will be key, as well as basic creative comforts.
Build:
Engine
- 06-08 K24A2 - $1400 EST
- RBC intake manifold; bored out to 70mm - $310 ($235+$75 for boring)
- Skunk2 70mm TB - $360
- Karcepts RBC Adapter w/ ports - $70
- 45' VTC - $235
- K20 oil pump kit w/ Tensioner - $345
- Moroso Oil Pan - $350
Gearbox
- Gearbox; X2M5 w/ PNN4 LSD (K20A2 w/ K20Z3 LSD); $1780
- Competition Clutch stage 4 w/ 8lb flywheel - $630
- K20A Intermediate shaft (used) - $125 (Ebay)
- Drive Shaft Shop axles - Not ordered yet
Electronics
- KPro PRB V4 - $1150
- Hondata 4 bar MAP - $100
- PLX wideband - $200
- EP3 Sub Harness (for OBD connector, as well as Honda E plug and C101) - $35
Additional Motivation
- GT3582R twin scroll - $1630
- 1300cc deatschwerk injectors - $380
- Synapse 50mm Wastegate w/ boost control - $850 ($390 + $450 w/ bc & flanges)
Exhaust -- All Custom
- T4 Divided Flange Merge Collector, cast stainless - $150
- T4 copper gasket - $10
- Header flange, 3/8" 304 Stainless - $45
Miscellaneous BS That No One Ever Tells You That You'll Need/Want
- Blox oil filter relocation kit - $80
- Hondata intake gasket - $35
- throttle body thermal gasket (70mm) - $15
- Vacuum Manifold - $40
- Oil block cross, 1/8" NPT (for oil feed and sensors) - $6
- 1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb (for brake booster) - $5
- GT35 Oil drain w/ 1/2" NPT - $12
- 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb for oil drain/return - $20 (for 2)
- 3" V-band for GT35 to exhaust - $20
- O2 sensor bung - $5
- K tuned map plug - $12
- Custom IACV block
- Custom IAA plug and cap
- Oil Feed Fitting for GT35 w/ restrictor, inlet is -4
- Oil Feed Fitting, -4 to 1/8" NPT (connects oil feed to oil cross) - $6
Crap I Still Need
- miscellaneous little things, like hoses, fittings, TPS, etc.
Things That Need To Be Done To Complete the Swap
Engine mounts
- These need to be custom made. Pretty straight forward, place engine in engine bay, line up hub holes with gearbox, making sure everything is straight and level. Honda engine sits at a slight angle, tilted towards the exhaust side (rearward of the car).
Driveaxles
- Once the engine mounts are made, measurements can be taken for the driveaxles. Currently estimated at 17" for driver side; 20.75" for passenger.
Throttle cable
- Need to reroute the cable to the left side of the engine bay. Throttle body actuates from the left side of the engine vs. Ford's right side. The hole for the throttle cable on the cam on the throttle body needs to be enlarged just slightly for the Noble throttle cable to fit. Then a bracket will be made to hold the cable at an appropriate angle and distance to ensure full range of the pedal.
Clutch Line
- The Honda slave is threaded for m10x1.25, the Noble clutch line is -4an. Buy a fitting (make sure it's reversed flared) and you now have your Noble clutch line.
Shift linkage
- I'm using a K-Tuning shifter box and the RSX shifter cables. Cut the ends off, tap the ends with 1/4-28 thread, add some rod/heim ends, bolt it up. On the gearbox, cut the studs off the gear selector mechanism, drill holes, add 6mm bolts to mount the rod ends with. Alternatively, find larger rod/heim ends for the larger studs on the gearbox.
Then, build brackets to hold the cables in place.
AC Compressor
- Using the Honda AC compressor. Will make custom fittings to mount the Noble lines.
PS Pump
- Using a Honda PS pump, will require a fitting to connect the Honda pump to the Noble lines. Pretty easy stuff too.
* Wiring *
- Biggest item, since it'll take the most time.
- Make sure you have the Noble build manual. It'll save you a TON of headaches.
- You'll need the EP3 Civic under dash harness. Look for 2002-2003 Civic Si, and make sure it has the E plug, the C101 plug, and the OBD2 Port. It should come with a set of relays (Main, Fuel / Main 2, and AF relay)
Relays
- Starter Relay: You can use the Noble's or use a Honda one. I choose the Honda one, just to keep everything similar. Easy to wire up.
- AC Relay: Again, Noble or Honda. I choose Honda. Run the chassis signal to the relay, then the output to the ECU. Then have the Vtec Pressure control engage the AC clutch.
- Main Relay: Honda. Wire it up as identified in Hondata's site
- Fuel Pump Relay: Honda. Same, send the fuel pump signal to the Noble fuel pump.
- O2 Relay: Optional... but required if you want to use Honda's primary O2.
- Reverse Relay: Noble has the reverse wiring in the chassis harness. Honda has it in the engine harness. Connect the wires together between the reverse switch on the Noble side. Cut the wire near the tunnel, run the signal wire to a relay. The input of the relay is from the ECU (C101 pin1). This gets a signal from the reverse switch. Ground C2 somewhere. When you engage reverse, it grounds the relay and you now have a reverse light.
Random Wiring Thoughts
- Ignition signal is on the Noble RR03 plug, that'll connect to the Honda's E9 pin
- Starter. Noble has the starter solenoid mounted on the chassis, uses the starter signal wire from the relay and energizes the solenoid to send power to the starter via the thick wire on the opposite pole. Honda has the starter solenoid attached to the starter. I kept the Noble starter solenoid as a power distribution block, removed the starter signal wire and wired that to the Honda's C101 16 pin. Connect the Honda's starter hot wire to the battery (or hot side of the Noble starter solenoid) and viola, ignition/starter works.
MIL (optional)
- Add a LED for the "Check Engine Light", this will make it OBD2 compliant, as well as helpful if there's an issue with the engine
OBD2 Port
- So it can pass smog, as well as the other benefits of the OBD2 port.
- Most of these wires will be wired to the ECU.
Engine Build #2
The 1st engine I put in the car to make sure everything works was a stock K24A2, minus the VTC gear and the RSX-S oil pump. Otherwise, internally stock.
Engine number 2 will be a built, sleeved, and lunatic motor.
- Darton MID Sleeves - Bought used but NIB - $600
- 87mm CP Pistons 10:1 (CPP-SC7046) - $586
- Manley Turbo Tuff rods (MAN-14405-4) - $781
- Cometic head gasket 87mm (CMT-C4311-030) - $90
- Supertech 100lb valve springs - (SPRK-H1020D) - $340
- Supertech valve guides (SUP-GDE-HK55-I-8 / SUP-GDE-HK55-E-8) - $80
Not sure what cams to go with yet, let alone valves. I plan on using the K24 head. May also do the larger intake manifold, but still unsure.
Current Setup
610whp / 409tq
Best ET: 10.7
Best Trapspeed: 147mph
Engine
- JDM K24A
- CP Pistons, 87MM, 10:1
- Manly Turbo Tuff i-beam Con rods
- Darton MID sleeves, rods, pistons, crank blueprinted/balanced, all installed by Darton
- Drag Cartel 2.2 Camshafts
- Supertech complete valvetrain (valves, springs, locks, keepers, guides, seals)
- Headwork built by Fuchs Cylinder Heads in Las Vegas
- Honda OEM headgasket
- L19 headbolts
- Kpro V4 ECU
- KTuned Upper Coolant Adapter
- KTuned Thermostat Housing V2
- KTuned RBC Adapter
- Engine harness custom made with milspec TXL wiring, sheathing, heatshrink, and a circular disconnect, using all new honda connectors and pins; Made by me
- Moroso Road Race oil pan
- K20A Oil Pump, balance shafts removed
- RSX VTC Gear, pinned to 45'.
Intake / Fuel
- GTX35R twin-scroll, 1.06AR turbo
- TurboSmart GenV ProGate, 50mm Wastegate
- Custom Manifold by VirtualWorks in Las Vegas (of Supra and GTR fame)
- Custom Exhaust, built by me
- Custom Downpipe, built by me
- Spoon 70mm throttle body
- RBC Intake Manifold, ported to match TB.
- 1300CC Injector Dynamics
- Karcepts Fuel Rail- DW350il fuel pump
- Synapse BOV
- Noble factory intercooler
Transmission
- Quaife Sequential Transmission, QKE8J
- Geartronics flatshift Gearbox Control Unit, loadcell, and display
- Drive Shaft Shop custom length axles, CV joints, and hubs
- Exedy Twin-Disk Clutch and flywheel (hm032sbl)
- Clutch Master hydraulic release bearing
Misc Engine/Chassis
- Blox Oil filter relocation kit
- Dry break oil line connectors
- Dry break clutch line connector
- Dry break fuel line connector
- Dry break gearbox cooler connector
- Stainless Steel AN lines for oil, fuel, and clutch throughout
- Aluminum hardlines for turbo coolant lines, replacing the silicon lines
- Front mount Setrab Oil Cooler, removed side pod oil cooler
- 5x114.3 conversion to Mazda 3 hubs
Wheels
- Kansei KNP 17x9 ~22 for track
- Konig Dekagram 18x8.5 ~35 (F) and 18x9.5 ~35 (R) for street.
- ARP extended studs on all corners
Interior
- AEM CD7LG dash
- Redesign of center console, removed gauges, moved HVAC controls lower, relocated radio to center. HVAC temp gauge is now drive-by-wire vs cabled
- Simpson 6 point harnesses dr/pass
- Fire suppression system, 3 port.
- Audi TT shifter ring and vents
- Pioneer Bluetooth Radio
- LED bulbs in gauges
- USB and cig port on rear interior light
- Moved starter button to dash under water temp gauge
- Removed fog-lamp button; Not needed for USDM cars
- Added metal Datalog button on center console
Exterior
- APR GTC500 wing
- Difflow diffuser
- Sectional division of belly tray with nutserts for better installation.
- Aerocatches on rear clam, replaced the other 1/4 turn retainers with QuikLatch push button retainers
- Replaced cracked headlamp covers. This sucked to do. Cutting the headlamps out is painful.
- Painted headlamp buckets black, instead of being body-colored.
- Installed Sealed3 Morimoto 90mm LED headlamps; They use less amperage and produce more light.