First off I would like to thank each and everyone that either sold me parts or taught me what I needed to learn to do this. This has been a very exciting 11 months since I went and purchased my K24a1 block and started piecing this swap together since....And for Nikos for running such a clean website for us to have here:up:
What i'm workin with:
K24a1 22K miles
K20a2 head and intake manifold 17K miles
BDL 66mm TB
K20A2 Oil pump, oil chain, and windage tray{new}
Floored Fab lower timing chain guide
Type-S Intake cam and TSX Exhaust cam
Hondata IMG
DC swap header
K20A2 6 speed trans with Factory LSD{Thanks Colin}
Type-S shift cables and shifter
Karcepts shifter adapter
9lb chromoly flywheel{Thanks Chunky}
Hybrid Racing mounts, conversion harness, and axels
Hondata K-PRO also from Hybrid
K-Tuned water pump block off plate, Mezeire pump, and traction bars
...and a whole bunch of fittings for my fuel and coolant system.
Now, I know someone is gonna say "Hey, there's an easier way to take that mount off..." And I know that, but my grinder works just fine, and I have hundreds of cutting disc....so that is what I used
Tools for the job. ALWAYS use eye protection, and preferably ear protection when doing this kind of task.
Mount to be re-moved
I cut the "ears" off and across the mount to be able to pry it down to the spot welds
Cut the spot welds from in between the mount and the frame rail, and comes right off
Cut across the top of the mount even with the frame rail and pry it up...
Then cut each weld till it's free...
Drive a screwdriver into the top to be able to get to the remaining welds
Cut the last welds and it'll twist right off
Smoothed up with a Tiger-paw, and ready for some paint
Trying to talk Mike into making a bracket for me to mount it to the block in front of the starter....if not, i'm goin to go to a machine shop and make it myself.
Since you had to grind down to bare metal on the frame rail, I would suggest removing the swap mount brackets and painting the frame rail behind them with rust inhibiting primer.
Since you had to grind down to bare metal on the frame rail, I would suggest removing the swap mount brackets and painting the frame rail behind them with rust inhibiting primer.
Thanks guys:up: Well I got a chance to get a little done today. Got what I needed as far as my fuel system done, the rest will have to be completed when the engine gets set in place, and got some work done on the chassis harness and inside the car.
Flare tool, fittings for feed and return line, and tube cutters.
Feed line cut to length and ready to be flared
Line locked into place and flared
Feed line done
Repeat process on return line and ready to run the line
Next up is to mount the FPR in place and start measuring for the feed line and return
My man Richie working on the dash.
Alabama critters:wow:
Dash removed
Evaporator and heater core removed
Blower motor out to have access to chassis harness
Fuse box removed to unplug harness' and to remove tape and loom to relocate under the dash
The line is -6 AN, the fuel feed line needs to have a -5 AN tube sleeve and nut along with an adapter from -5 to -6. The return has to have a -4 to -6 adapter. Everything else will be -6 line and fittings except for the fuel rail adapters that are -6 to -8 radiused fittings for smoother flow.
Well got a little done yesterday along with help from SiK and Brian @ Karcepts for helping me figure out that my printer was messing with the size of my diagram to cut out for my shifter, Thanks Brian:up:
First off, remove all of your old shifting hardware and lay out for the areas to be cut for the Karcepts kit
Cut along mark
Push cut area out, and check for burs
Clean up area, check clearance for final fitment, and install shifter with cables
All done
Didn't have any part of a wire tuck in mind before I started, but when I got to looking at what needed to be done to do it, didn't look that hard to do, especially while there was no engine in the bay. So just a couple of pics of what is done so far.
All wire loom and electrical tape was removed before pushing the wires back into cabin, some un-needed wires were re-moved also.
Drivers side wires pulled back
Tape and loom being re-moved
Fender liners were also re-moved and gonna be replaced with new, and gonna try and find new plugs for the parts of the harness that is being tucked{headlight, blinker, horn, and cooling fan plugs} if anyone knows where to get them
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