I must see something before I put it together, so I made this diagram.
Is this correct?
following advise from here: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2103425
It was old as dirt though, and I got sick of reading what is the part number for my... I really have read over and over and didnt see the perfect answer.
Eventually I will update this first post with what parts and part numbers, similar to the infamous parts swap thread frost had listed many moons ago.
All fittings are going to be steel or stainless steel. and the flares are 37 degrees before someone chimes in saying that it must be different- shut up.
the 12 x 1mm I know my master cylinder has a fitting that is just retarded larger than the others. 12x1mm is the size for the 1" master cylinders from what I read. "normally" you will have all 10x1mm fittings on the master cylinder.
A picture of a picture, I will not figure out my scanner to save my life. I nearly threw the printer out the window a couple days ago printing insurance cards.
If anyone has a way to save some bucks on the fittings hit it up.
For Quick stop shop for the fittings-
found this off nwp
http://forums.nwp4life.com/zerothread?cmd=print&id=5244 it is the downstairinc.com explaniation of everything's placement, Which I believe is exactly what I have in the diagram besides the rear 1" master cylinder is a 12x1.0mm thread.
1=oem master cylinder front outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
2=oem master cylinder rear outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
3=engine bay to cabin front (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 straight bulkhead)
4=engine bay to cabin rear (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 straight bulkhead)
5=prop valve front inlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
6=prop valve rear inlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
7=prop valve front left outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
8=prop valve front right outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
9=prop valve rear left outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
10=prop valve rear right outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
11=engine bay to cabin rear left* (-3 tube nut/sleeve, 90 degree bulkhead)
12=engine bay to cabin rear right* (-3 tube nut/sleeve, 90 degree bulkhead)
13=cabin to front rear wheel well (-3 tube nut/sleeve, straight bulkhead)
14=cabin to front left wheel well (-3 tube nut/sleeve, straight bulkhead)
15=wheel well to front left oem line to caliper (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
16=wheel well to front right oem line to caliper (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
FOR BRAIDED INTERIOR LINES OR WHATEVER....
-3AN HOSE
-3AN FITTINGS STAINLESS STAINLESS STEEL
-3AN FITTINGS STEEL
determine the area of cabin entrance for your fittings for the rear and the master cylinder lines.
drilling two holes large enough for your chosen bulkhead fittings (3an both sides with bulkhead nuts) ensure your bulkhead fittings are able to go through the hole. cant remember the side want to say somewhere in the 3/8-7/16" drill size. I just kinda eye balled and said ok lets do this. pilot hole first.
on the cabin side there is the chassis harness, I took my srs box and lifted the plastic out the way. thought enough, but still snagged it once. I see a few wires cut looks like I will have to remove the plastic liner and repair the wires. not a big deal since I want to remove the original wiring harness for the ecu leaving the 4 wires required for the conversion. -fuel, ecu, mil, and whatever other one there is think alternator charge light.
place the bulkhead fittings through.
place tap on the firewall over the fittings to hold them in place so you can just fingure it on. no need to tighten yet.
I took stiff house electrical wiring straightened a piece out, and routed the master cylinder to bulkhead fitting to my liking.
take the stiff wiring, grab your bending tool and brake line. bend to how you bent the electrical wiring. check each bend to fitment.
ta-da! mutha flucker you just got half part done.
The rear brake lines, cut to right below the fittings, its ok if your a little off they are giving. cut mine with a dremel cut off wheel.
next take your 3an sleeve and fitting place the fitting then the sleeve on the line.
double flare is easy- I had a retard moment and google it up: http://www.ehow.com/how_5002780_use-double-flaring-tool.html
double flare your fitting/ sleeve side
take your original master cylinder fitting, place on your new line with threads to the end. and double flare.
do the same for both master cylinder lines.
for the rears, I have bad knees, bad back, took me a little while between stretching but place the 3an sleeve and fittings on and double flare the rear brake lines.
just lightly install your brake lines on the bulkhead fittings for now. I just mock up everything so in the final step I place tephlon on all my fittings and tighten.
mock up the proportioning valve where you want to place it and....
I decided on placing the proportioining valve where the srs box normally sits. yerp I took out the spot welded in thing it sits on as well. for 2 reasons, so the valve can sit there, and also to just create a more open space feel if someone looks there.
I had to get some wire for this step though.
1" bend out from the firewall, then part that goes into the valve is about a 30 or 40 degree angle into the fittings.
I have wire mocked up for the rear lines, but dremel broke and couldnt cut anymore brake line. Will be doing that at work tomorrow.
Is this correct?
following advise from here: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2103425
It was old as dirt though, and I got sick of reading what is the part number for my... I really have read over and over and didnt see the perfect answer.
Eventually I will update this first post with what parts and part numbers, similar to the infamous parts swap thread frost had listed many moons ago.
All fittings are going to be steel or stainless steel. and the flares are 37 degrees before someone chimes in saying that it must be different- shut up.
the 12 x 1mm I know my master cylinder has a fitting that is just retarded larger than the others. 12x1mm is the size for the 1" master cylinders from what I read. "normally" you will have all 10x1mm fittings on the master cylinder.
A picture of a picture, I will not figure out my scanner to save my life. I nearly threw the printer out the window a couple days ago printing insurance cards.
If anyone has a way to save some bucks on the fittings hit it up.
For Quick stop shop for the fittings-
Price from Downstairinc.com is 140 for there v.1. and 150 for v.2.
found this off nwp
http://forums.nwp4life.com/zerothread?cmd=print&id=5244 it is the downstairinc.com explaniation of everything's placement, Which I believe is exactly what I have in the diagram besides the rear 1" master cylinder is a 12x1.0mm thread.
1=oem master cylinder front outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
2=oem master cylinder rear outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
3=engine bay to cabin front (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 straight bulkhead)
4=engine bay to cabin rear (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 straight bulkhead)
5=prop valve front inlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
6=prop valve rear inlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
7=prop valve front left outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
8=prop valve front right outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
9=prop valve rear left outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
10=prop valve rear right outlet (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
11=engine bay to cabin rear left* (-3 tube nut/sleeve, 90 degree bulkhead)
12=engine bay to cabin rear right* (-3 tube nut/sleeve, 90 degree bulkhead)
13=cabin to front rear wheel well (-3 tube nut/sleeve, straight bulkhead)
14=cabin to front left wheel well (-3 tube nut/sleeve, straight bulkhead)
15=wheel well to front left oem line to caliper (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
16=wheel well to front right oem line to caliper (-3 tube nut/sleeve, -3 to M10x1.0 adapter)
FOR BRAIDED INTERIOR LINES OR WHATEVER....
-3AN HOSE
-3AN FITTINGS STAINLESS STAINLESS STEEL
-3AN FITTINGS STEEL
determine the area of cabin entrance for your fittings for the rear and the master cylinder lines.
drilling two holes large enough for your chosen bulkhead fittings (3an both sides with bulkhead nuts) ensure your bulkhead fittings are able to go through the hole. cant remember the side want to say somewhere in the 3/8-7/16" drill size. I just kinda eye balled and said ok lets do this. pilot hole first.
on the cabin side there is the chassis harness, I took my srs box and lifted the plastic out the way. thought enough, but still snagged it once. I see a few wires cut looks like I will have to remove the plastic liner and repair the wires. not a big deal since I want to remove the original wiring harness for the ecu leaving the 4 wires required for the conversion. -fuel, ecu, mil, and whatever other one there is think alternator charge light.
place the bulkhead fittings through.
place tap on the firewall over the fittings to hold them in place so you can just fingure it on. no need to tighten yet.
I took stiff house electrical wiring straightened a piece out, and routed the master cylinder to bulkhead fitting to my liking.
take the stiff wiring, grab your bending tool and brake line. bend to how you bent the electrical wiring. check each bend to fitment.
The rear brake lines, cut to right below the fittings, its ok if your a little off they are giving. cut mine with a dremel cut off wheel.
next take your 3an sleeve and fitting place the fitting then the sleeve on the line.
double flare is easy- I had a retard moment and google it up: http://www.ehow.com/how_5002780_use-double-flaring-tool.html
double flare your fitting/ sleeve side
take your original master cylinder fitting, place on your new line with threads to the end. and double flare.
do the same for both master cylinder lines.
for the rears, I have bad knees, bad back, took me a little while between stretching but place the 3an sleeve and fittings on and double flare the rear brake lines.
just lightly install your brake lines on the bulkhead fittings for now. I just mock up everything so in the final step I place tephlon on all my fittings and tighten.
mock up the proportioning valve where you want to place it and....
I decided on placing the proportioining valve where the srs box normally sits. yerp I took out the spot welded in thing it sits on as well. for 2 reasons, so the valve can sit there, and also to just create a more open space feel if someone looks there.
I had to get some wire for this step though.
1" bend out from the firewall, then part that goes into the valve is about a 30 or 40 degree angle into the fittings.
I have wire mocked up for the rear lines, but dremel broke and couldnt cut anymore brake line. Will be doing that at work tomorrow.